Aiguille Route Setting

Yosemite!

2012-01-20T20:45:00.002-05:00

World record in speed climbing

2012-01-11T22:20:00.000-05:00

Meet...Meagan Martin

2011-12-31T13:55:00.003-05:00

By Aubrey Wingo

Recently Aiguille Rock Climbing Center graphically revamped their style, including our brand new brochure and our front cover model might seem a little unfamiliar to some. Typically, writers at the Aiguille newsletter present articles about our current members here at the facility however we can make an exception in this case. Meagan Martin, the new face of the Aiguille brochure, has a long history with the gym.

Climbing for around 12 years now, Meagan’s involvement in the climbing industry over the years is long seeded in Team Aiguille, USA Climbing, and Aiguille Rock Climbing Center. Let us take a stroll back in time to around the turn of the century... the 21st Century that is when Meagan retired from her years in gymnastics, despite the fact that both her parents and two sisters were rooted in in the sport, to discover a new world of athleticism in rock climbing. Being a Lake Mary native, Aiguille was guaranteed to be her first stop. It wasn’t long before Meagan proved to her Team Aiguille coaches and competitors that she was a contender, quickly dominating the climbing scene award after award. Meagan is a four-time US National Team Member, including first place at Youth Nationals in 2002, placeholder in the Professional Climbers Association competiting, multiple American Bouldering series wins, first at Boulderpalooza, and has competed at various competitions such as the Teva Mountain Games and the Ford Adventure Sports Challenge.

Now at 21, Meagan’s climbing competition days have been put on hold while she attends Vanderbilt University in Nashville, TN as a star pole vaulter. Always involved in track and field at Lake Mary High School and a 4 year letter holder in her sport, she currently holds the record at LMHS at 12’3” as well as Vanderbilt’s record at 12’8”. Pole vaulting definitely seems like a stretch from climbing however Meagan has noted that pole vaulting keeps her in shape when she does not have the opportunities to climb. Once graduated with a degree in English, it won’t be long before you see Meagan in the competition scene again.

So what can inspire someone like Meagan to continuously train and climb? “Mark Mercer and Choco Tacos!” she says with a laugh and maybe an occasional snort. You can constantly see these training partners working some of the hardest problems on the Wave and constantly leading 5.13s here at Aiguille. “Climbing is the best thing ever, frustrating but rewarding.” In this writer’s opinion, Meagan is an inspiration to any female climber, climbing stronger than most of the men. When asked about her thoughts about being a female climber, she simply says, “we’re awesome”, and that it can definitely be satisfying to beat all the boys!

Meagan has climbed all over the country, including Little Rock City, Rocktown, New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park, Fosters Falls, Yosemite National Park and more. Eventually, her dream is to climb at Hueco Tanks in Texas and Rodellar in Spain. Bouldering or sport climbing, it doesn’t matter as long as she is having fun!

Overall, Meagan isn’t much different from any other girl. Outside of climbing, she loves to shop, watch TV, and paint her nails, listens to everything from Modest Mouse to Deadmau5, and oh wait... climbs V9/5.12d! When asked what advice she could give to all climbers, she says,

“Don’t ever be afraid to get on anything that’s hard.
Climb everything.”

Look for Meagan strapping on her Testarosas every holiday break from school dominating at Aiguille Rock Climbing Center

After Dark: Holiday Party Recap

2011-12-31T13:28:00.003-05:00

By Lauren Day

The lights down low, the music up loud, this seems to be commonplace for Aiguille After Dark. However, this After Dark was a little different. The gym was aglow with a multitude of Christmas lights and trees and shimmering ornaments. The smell of baked goods from the bake off wafted through the air filling everyone's minds with thoughts of the delicious holiday foods they were about to consume, and, thanks to our routsetters, trees and stars adorned the bouldering walls.

The Diamond Wall and Wave Wall were stripped and set for our Holiday Climbers, and the hustle and bustle says that they were a hit!! As always, everyone was milling about working the new routes, but in anticipation for the holiday celebrations to come, we saw a few tacky sweaters out and about.

Make sure you don't forget to come in and check out our next Aiguille After Dark on January 27, 2012 to bring in the NEW YEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! As always, there will be new routes to work and motivating music in the air!

Visit our Facebook to view more photos of this great event!

Gear Geek- January 2012 Black Diamond Primrose Harness

2011-12-28T19:38:00.010-05:00

By Lauren Day

The Black Diamond Primrose Harness is a women's specific fit harness with ample padding to keep you comfy after a long day climbing.

Like I said, the padding is supportive, but most importantly, it's breathable. Unlike many other padded harnesses on the market, this harness does a pretty good job of keeping your back and legs ventilated and sweat free on hot days. The women's specific cut of the waist portion of the harness is cut to fit women's hips much more comfortably and more securely than a standard unisex harness. There are four gear loops and a haul loop on the back. The leg loops are adjustable as well as droppable.

There are a few cons to this harness though. It is a little on the heavy side, so if you're looking for a lightweight harness for a long multipitch, this may not be your match. Also, after awhile of belaying, the leg loops to become a little uncomfortable.

The Primrose is a great harness if you're just starting out or if you're looking for a bargain, starting at around $49. No need to worry gents! This harness also comes in a male/ unisex version called the Momentum.

Both of these harnesses come in a few different versions as well. There is the standard Primrose or Momentum, a speed adjust version which eliminates the need to double back your harness (Primrose SA and Momentum SA), and also packages which include the harness as well as a chalkbag, a refillable chalk sock, a Black Diamond Pearbiner screwlock carabiner, and an ATC. The package is available in either the regular or SA versions for around $99.

The Momentum version of the harness as well as the momentum SA Package are both available in our retail are! Stop by, ask us questions, and try one on today! Who knows, it could be your next harness!
Again, this is a newer column and we are always looking for your feedback and suggestions!
Have a piece of gear you want reviewed? Email us! You may see your gear in the next Gear Geek!

For information on ordering and gear, email Karl at orders@aiguille.com

Aiguille's New Waiver System!

2011-12-28T19:28:00.017-05:00

By RyAnn Lugo

As, most of you have noticed, Aiguille scientists have discovered a way to convert our primitive paper waiver system over to an electronic waiver system (Just kidding. We are not scientists). This is a major system upgrade so, starting on the 15th of this month, EVERYONE will need a new waiver, regardless if you have filled one out or not. And you're probably thinking, "Well it's about time! Paper waivers date back to, like... the Jurassic Period, when dinosaurs roamed the earth with my grandma." Well, we couldn't agree more! (But, seriously. Do you know how many staff members we lost trying to keep T-Rex from getting through our garage door every day? Ridiculous.) This new electronic system is definitely a step up from our previous one, and it’s designed to make everyone's life easier - customers and employees alike.

Haven't filled a new one out yet? The process is simple and there are a number of ways to fill one out. However, please remember that, just like before:

1.If the participant is under 18, Florida Statutes still require that the minor's Natural Guardian complete and sign the document. If a participant is over 18, they must fill out a waiver for themselves.

2.After the waiver is completed, an Aiguille employee must verify it with a valid form of ID, such as a driver’s license, or a copy, belonging to the Natural Guardian or participant.

3.We will need one waiver per participant, please (i.e. anyone setting foot on the almighty blue-padded carpet).

Ways to Fill Out a Waiver

At Aiguille:
1.) For participants under 18, the easiest way to handle this is for the child's natural guardian to bring them in on their first visit. The natural guardian can fill out the waiver electronically at one of the handy-dandy new kiosks at the counter by the front door. The computer pretty much does the hard work for you - the thinking part. It tells you what information you need to fill out and where to sign. When you're done, just present your driver's license at the front counter. Easy!

At Home:
2.) You can also fill out a waiver from the comfort of your own home! Just go to Aiguille.com (or click the laptop) and the link to the waiver page will be right there on the front page. This is usually easier for participants over 18 because you can complete it right from your computer, then simply come in and present your ID to an Aiguille staff member on your next visit. For parents, no need to change out of your superman pajamas and bunny slippers. Simply, scan and print a copy of your driver's license to send with your child, or email us a picture of your driver's license (please make sure that the name and birth date on the ID can be read).

Paper Waiver:
3.) If you prefer the old fashioned way, paper waivers are still available at the front counter or online for you to print out (Click the waiver to view in PDF), fill in, and bring in with your ID when you visit us. Also, page 3 of the online paper waiver is always good to look at, as it lists our important safety rules! Another great thing about this new waiver is that it provides Aiguille with some insight on how you guys came to learn about us. We are rather hidden back here in the labyrinth of scary back-alley warehouses (kind of like a secret club mwahahaha!), so it's always helpful to know how our climbers have come to know about us. Fill yours out today and feel free to let us know what you think!

Also, with the advancements made in technology recently, we anticipate a time when we will no longer need you to give us your personal information. Aiguille scientists are working out a way to simply scan your brains for the information we need, as you walk through the door... Not really. We are not scientists. We just climb. And make lame jokes.

Misplaced Muscle

2011-12-28T19:24:00.015-05:00

By Kreg Dobzinksi

Everyone has problems and you more than most. Actually, that last part is (probably) untrue, but sometimes it is easy to feel that way when you are trying to climb and it would be more accurate to call your actions "falling" or "getting hurt". Well, it is time to do something about it. For optimal climbing fitness it is crucial counteract the constant repetitive stresses that overdevelop certain areas. Muscular imbalance is one of the leading causes of sports related injury, which is odd considering that most corrective workouts (like this one) are relatively simple and quick to do while producing lasting benefit. The area of the body that we will focus on this month is the shoulders because it is where nearly all of your climbing movements originate. Although it's uncommon that your shoulders ever become noticeably pumped, imbalances in the shoulder can lead to injury in the hands, wrist, and fingers. Additionally, your stronger shoulders will shift some of the strain off those key areas, so you can climb more efficiently.

The Workout:

Please, do not attempt any of these exercises if you are not warmed-up. None of these exercises are truly stressful yet they are most likely going to work areas your body is not used to. An initial 15-20 minutes of light cardio or climbing should be enough to get the blood flowing. This can even be done as a cool down after an easier day of climbing. Also, some of these are described using specific types of fitness equipment, but most are able to be modified for use without.

1. Pull-up Retractions (10 reps) - Hang from a bar as if you’re about to do a wide-grip pull-up. Keeping your arms straight, focus on your scapula and pull from the middle of your back. Your shoulders should raise a few inches. Lower slowly with control.

2. Plange Pushups (15 reps) - Adding a shoulder protractions to a normal pushup. Keep your pelvis tucked and your back flat throughout the motion. At the top of each push-up, protract from the middle of your upper back, which feels like you’re making a hump in your back. You should be trying to push your shoulders and chest as far away from the floor as possible.

3. Y-T-W Prone Raises (4 reps each direction) - This is probably my favorite all around shoulder exercise. Lie chest down on a stability ball (or bench) with your body at a 45 degree angle. Hold (very) light weight with arms straight out in front of you dropped to the floor. Grip weight with thumbs up. Now raise the weight, keeping your arms straight as high as they can go. Lower and repeat four times in that fashion. Then spread your arms so they form more of a T and repeat. Next, keep your arms in that 'Y' shape, but as you raise your arms up pull your elbows into your ribs and rotate your thumbs so they point away from your body. All of these movements should originate from the lower part of your scapula.

4. External Rotations (15 each side) - Lie on floor on your side. The arm not on the ground should be grasping a very light weight in front of your stomach with the elbow is locked into the rib-cage. It is imperitve to maintain alignment in a straight line from your head to feet. Now, with your elbow still tucked to your side begin to rotate the weight off of the floor until it is pointing at the sky. Lower slowly and repeat.

5. Retractions (15 each side) - Kneel on a bench so that one arm the knee is resting on the platform with one leg on the ground and the other arms hanging free, grasping a weight. Back should be flat, pelvis tucked. This is the starting position for a one-arm lat pull. Now, like you did with the pull-up retraction, keep the arm straight and only retract (or shrug) your shoulder, which only moves the weight a handful of inches. Lower under control and repeat. Don't let that elbow bend.

6. Protractions (15 each side) - Lie on the bench and hold the weight above you, like the finishing position of a one-armed bench press. Now punch the sky using only your shoulder, moving the weight only a few inches. Lower and repeat.

7. Wall Angles (5-8 reps) Sit with your back flat against a wall, including the lower back, so you may need to use some force with your feet to keep it pushed flat. Arms out to your side, slightly bent, pushed flat against the wall. Your head should be against the wall with your chin tucked. Now raise your arms as though you’re making a snow angel (Floridians: lying on your back in the snow and performing a jumping jack motion). Try to raise them over your head but do not let your back arch to allow them to move further because then you wouldn't be truly working. At the sticking point hold for 5 to 10 seconds trying to stay relaxed and also focusing on keep your arms flat on the wall. Reverse and repeat.

This all probably won't take more then 15 minutes in my experience and personally I feel more energized and just "solid" afterwards. Full disclosure, most of this workout was pilfered from Deadpoint Magazine so if you need a visual of any of these exercises, most should be available on their website. Be on the lookout for next month's installment when it is time to work on those hips.

Nalle Crushing in Hueco

2011-12-24T01:28:00.001-05:00

Pay close attention to the second boulder problem... INSANE!!!

Challenge Yourself

2011-12-08T18:37:00.012-05:00

By Kreg Dobzinksi

It’s Monday evening and you see a purple-shirted man desperately trying to yell something at everyone from the top of a table. Well, that dude is probably me and what you may or may not hear me bellowing about is that Monday night is Challenge Night! The many forms that challenge may come in are difficult to sum up within about 30 seconds while trying to project. Allow me to elaborate a little more eloquently and describe in detail the various events we have devised to test your skills outside of climbing's normal realm. To make it easier to remember, the challenges are divided into balance-based and climbing-based categories.

BALANCE

Stack 'Em Up: This will strain your balance. Normally, you start by standing on two hollow 1 x 1 plastic milk crates while you are on belay and tied in. You may only have one foot on either stack at time as you add a crate to one side and then the other. You will gradually ascend higher and maintaining the integrity of the stack becomes more troublesome as you progress; the soft blue mats are not an ideal stable foundation. For added difficulty, you can try to use only one crate and balance on the corner edges.

Slackline: The slackline is a one-inch wide piece of webbing (flat rope) stretched between two points of the climbing wall - most likely about a foot off the ground. The goal is to maintain your balance as you walk down the line, which looks much easier than it is to do at first. The line will stretch and wobble although - similar to riding a bike -your balance accumulates through repetition and concentration. A few tips are to pick a focal point at eye level on the opposite wall and also to make small, accurate steps as you move forward slowly.

Highlife:This is a slackline variant - a rather extreme one. The slackline is set-up about 18 feet off the ground and stretched between the slab and vertical walls in the center of the gym. The participant is tied into ropes on both sides of the wall - double belayed. They climb up to where the line begins, and then start to walk slowly across the webbing using either the ropes tied to them for balance, or attempting to use only your hips and wits to get across.

Slackline X-Up: This event is two slacklines that are stretched across with one starting low and ending high, and vice versa. The lines cross in the middle forming an 'X'. You are able to hold onto both lines the whole time, but the challenge is to switch your body from one line to other and end on the opposite side at the finish.

CLIMBING

Graffiti: A hold elimination climbing game and one of our most popular events. It is played in one section of the climbing wall and typically there is one large, central jug hold as the starting point. The participants take turns making one move with their hands from the starting jug to another adjacent hold and then demonstrating control by matching for two seconds. Once a hold has been used, a small piece of tape is placed next to it marking it as 'off' as a handhold for the rest of the game. Eventually, all of the easy moves are used up and the wall begins to fill with tape and looking like it was tagged - hence the name graffiti.

Rock Paper Scissors Dyno Competition:This is another climbing related challenge that adds athletic twist to the classic game of Rock, Paper, Scissors. Two walls are used and on each wall there is a large starting hold underneath three evenly spaced holds marked 'rock', 'paper', or 'scissors'. Both participants ready themselves in front of one set of holds and after the countdown of "rock, paper, scissors, shoot" they leap upwards off their starting holds (dynamic movement) and catch of the three marked holds above them. Their choices are measured against each other if both players manage to stay on the wall; if one falls then it is automatically the player still holding on, and if both fail it is simply a do-over after switching walls. The amount of rounds and type of scoring depends on how many are playing, but typically it is a swift moving game.

Bachar Ladder: This is training tool named after the ultra-strong climber John Bachar. The ladder is constructed of loose cord and PVC pipes for the rungs, so it bows and stretches away from you as it is climbed and the PVC does not really get any better with chalk. It is set-up so the ladder is at about a 45 degree ascending angle and typically is climbed hand over hand without the use of your feet, a style called campusing. Another ladder we bring out is one to develop sloper strength because of the large increases of diameter from one pipe to the next. Both ladders can be climbed in a variety of fashions to increase difficulty.

Chimney Delivery: This is a December Exclusive! Participants will be challenged to see how fast they can ascend the chimney portion of our walls, back near the lead cave. There may or may not be a Santa costume…

Well, there you have it - all the challenges decoded. Hopefully you will be able to reference this article in the future if you see something on the Calendar under Monday Night that you want explained. Also, I would be really interested to hear any games of your own that either you have played in the past or maybe thought something else up that might be fun. I want to hear about it, trust me, I really do.

Meet…Davis Stewart

2011-12-08T18:33:00.007-05:00

By Tara Ziegler

Odds are if you have climbed at Aiguille before, at one point or another you have stopped for a moment to watch this kid climb. He'll be sitting quiet as a mouse one second, and then sending the sickest move the next.

Davis was introduced to Aiguille from a birthday party he attended when he was 12 and was immediately hooked. After playing baseball for 7 years, Davis was excited to try something new and very different, and now considers himself better with solo activities than at team sports. "Climbing is my favorite because it’s different from everything else. I used to climb trees a lot when I was little so I guess that just transferred."

Davis is now at Aiguille at least 5 days a week, with 3 of those dedicated to the climbing team. A typical training regiment consists of warming up, stretching, running, hangboard, 4x4's and an ever changing concoction involving the system wall. However even with all of this he says he would prefer there to be more practices and longer sessions. "It's good motivation. Some days I don't want to climb and it's good to have the coaches there pushing me."

Another great source of motivation for him is the climbers that he surrounds himself with. "What I think helps me is to climb with people who are at my skill level or stronger than me. They challenge me and push me toward harder climbs."

Aside from the people who help keep him motivated, Davis also derives his inspiration from the climbers who look up to him. And, if you have ever seen him climb, you are probably one of those climbers. “It makes me feel good for sure. It makes me want to try harder and harder to do crazy moves or hard routes. And when younger kids look up to me it makes me want to be the best climber I can, so they can learn how to read routes or complicated sequences. I think its super cool.”

All of this training helps prepare Davis for the competitive aspect of climbing, which is extra motivation to work even harder. He has competed in over 30 different competitions including ABS, SCS and a few others just for fun. He is currently training for the upcoming ABS Regional competition, held next Saturday at On the Edge.

When I asked if he preferred indoor climbing to outdoor, without any hesitation he said indoor. "You can make your own moves up. You can duplicate and change them." Still he is building up a pretty decent climbing resume with Stone Fort, HP40, Rocklands and Little Cottonwood Canyon already under his belt and Hueco Tanks in his sights.

Flips Flops off and Climbing Shoes On! Winter Camp is here!

2011-12-08T18:27:00.003-05:00

By Kayla Baker

What better way to make a wonderful winter memory than making new friends, building self confidence and, did I mention, rock climbing?? Aiguille Rock Climbing Center’s 2011 Winter Break Climbing & Challenge Camp will be starting on Monday, December 19, 2011 and is open to kids from ages 6 - 16 years old. Aiguille offers full or half days to best fit your schedule, as well as discounts for siblings and additional camp weeks.

Loaded with tons of climbing, team building games, and an all around confidence-boosting experience, Aiguille is the place for you this winter! And let’s not forget about the rappelling, technique classes, slack-lining, relay races, pizza parties, balloon animals, fun atmosphere, new friends, and more!

At Aiguille, kids learn to not only set goals for themselves, but also to push themselves in order to reach these goals. Counselors provide a warm and fun atmosphere and motivate campers to reach their goals every week. Whether it is climbing, being a good friend to someone, or keeping your balance on slack line, every goal is important!

Not only is climbing a great sport for your body, but it also strengthens you as a person, allowing kids to see that, as long as they put their mind to it, they can do more than they may think they can. For more information on our Winter Break Camp or for registration forms, please visit our website. See you at camp!

Gear Geek December 2011- Gregory Z55

2011-12-08T18:20:00.009-05:00

by Lauren Day

This is an exciting new tidbit where we are going to be giving all of you lovely readers a little review on new, innovative, well built gear we just think you guys should know about. Sometimes we may stray away from the climbing world and venture into the realm of backpacking. These things do go hand in hand after all! Since this is a new column, we would really love your suggestions and comments! Let us know of any gear you want to see reviewed!

This month I’ll be doing a review on the Gregory Z55 hiking backpack. The Z55 is a classic internal frame pack with aluminum frame stays as well as a rigid plastic frame sheet. It is a 55 liter pack, which is perfect for a comfy overnight hike, weekend trip out to your favorite crag, or just a long approach where you want something a little sturdier than a daypack to hold your gear. I love the big open stuff pocket between the main pocket and the front pocket. It’s perfect for shoving a drippy rain shell after a storm, or keeping those smelly climbing shoes out of the elements. Another awesome feature of this pack is the super cushy ventilated back panel. It sits an inch or so off the main frame to allow air to pass between your back and the frame, keeping you cool on the hottest of summer days. The top lid pocket is super roomy as well and has ample space to shove a map, compass, guidebook, and lots of snacks.

The main pocket is basically a giant sack attached to a frame. There is plenty of room for anything you could possibly want or need with you in the outdoors. You might even have room to shove your kitchen sink in there! There is also a sweet water resistant zipper that runs down the entire length of the main pocket, making it pretty easy to access all the goodies you have shoved into the bottom of your pack. The two water bottle pockets are perfectly sized for a Nalgene bottle. And speaking of hydration, there is even a little section to shove your Platypus or CamelBak reservoirs. The two hipbelt pockets are perfect for shoving in more snacks.
The only qualm I have with this backpack was that the compression straps on the bottom of the pack, typically reserved for attaching your sleeping pad, were not effective. They aren’t long enough to wrap around a closed cell foam sleeping pad. If you have a self inflating pad, no big deal, but if you have a closed cell foam pad, you have to use the compression straps on the side of the pack to attach it, which causes you to lose one of those beloved water bottle pockets.

Other than that, this pack is pretty bomb proof. The tough reinforced nylon has withstood a good bit of wear and tear and grinding up against trees and stayed extremely comfortable with a full load.

This pack comes in three sizes, small, medium, and large (depending on your torso length), and is available for purchase from a wide variety of outdoor retailers. For information on ordering this gear, e-mail Karl at orders@aiguille.com!

P.S. Since this is a new column, we would really love your suggestions and comments! Let us know of any gear you want reviewed!

Aiguille After Dark: Holiday Party!

2011-12-08T18:09:00.009-05:00

by Kayla Baker

No matter what holiday you celebrate, there is one day that every climber can come together and have a jolly good time…December 23, 2011! This month’s Aiguille after Dark will not only be a night of new routes, turned down lights, and JSHIH’s jammin’ beats, but a Holiday Party that you can’t miss! Holiday decorations will be everywhere you turn, and keep your eye out for Santa coming down the Chimney Wall…I sure hope everyone was good this year…

Aiguille is going to be transformed into a Winter Wonderland filled with climbers of all ages wearing Christmas sweaters of all colors. Bring out that old Rudolph cardigan or your Snowflake wool sweater, and climbing with bells on your shoes is a must. There is no better way to warm your noggin than a fuzzy Santa hat…except for hot chocolate, which Aiguille will be providing with candy canes for all climbers filled with holiday cheer!

What is a holiday party without food? (Not a party at all!) We will also be having a Holiday Themed Bake Off, so make sure you bring a delicious treat with you to put in our bakeoff! There will be labels to write the name of your baked good on, so make sure you come with a catchy title for your food, too!

We cannot wait to see you at Aiguille’s 2011 Holiday Party! Lights go down and JSHIH starts at 8:00pm for all climbers and 11:00pm until midnight for all Aiguille Members. See you at Aiguille! (Or we may just have to stuff your stocking with coal.)

Sasha DiGiulian climbs Pure Imagination(5.14d)

2011-12-07T19:07:00.001-05:00

Climb So iLL

2011-12-02T21:45:00.001-05:00

3rd Annual Dead Hang

2011-11-20T20:13:00.002-05:00

Dark Horse #1

2011-11-15T23:21:00.003-05:00

1999 Aiguille Commercial

2011-11-09T09:19:00.001-05:00

Pro Climbers on Adrenaline Lab with Bear Grylls

2011-11-03T22:32:00.002-04:00

Meet...Kara Werner

2011-10-24T13:54:00.011-04:00

by Tara Ziegler

Aiguille has always shown improvement as a facility with years that go by, but within the past 4 years we have experienced many excellent changes and additions, and it's all thanks to the guidance of one woman.

Many people knew Kara around the gym as our sweet and soft-spoken Operations Manager who was always willing to lend an extra hand, or an ear. Some may not have had the pleasure of meeting her because she was also very much known for spending countless hours behind her desk. All of her hard work cultivated amazing events such as our annual Dead Hang Halloween Competition, Summer Beach Day Party, Aiguille After Dark with JHISH (the amazing DJ that never fails to deliver), and some great improvements for members including new workout equipment, yoga instructors and the beloved ping-pong table.

Kara also holds a very inspiring outlook on rock climbing that not many veterans have yet mastered.

Climbing has always been classified as an extreme sport for those with extreme mentalities. Even during your first experience on the wall you are forced to confront some inner demons; a fear of falling, the possibility of getting injured, or stressing about not being able to make it to the top. Climbing is all about pushing yourself to the limit with your body and mind, however the mind doesn’t always get the conditioning our bodies do.

Kara is a climber who offers a refreshing perspective on how to push yourself through every negative thought and challenge that your brain can come up with. You have to use your mind just as much as your muscle to get up a wall, and I don’t just mean for technique.

“The mental thing is huge. If you tell yourself you can’t do it, you’ll never be able to do it. I climb because I like confronting myself and proving to myself that I can do something I never thought I could. There are so many things that challenge you in climbing and one of the biggest things is yourself. It doesn’t matter how far away the hold is or how small it is, sometimes it just comes down to you. Confronting the voices in my own head is something that I have struggled with for a long time. That’s made a huge difference in my climbing.”

Admitting to her previous lack of athleticism, Kara has now developed a whole new motivation and routine for staying active. She participates in running, stairs, yoga and occasionally pilates. “Doing all that stuff now is more fun because I know that I’m not just on a treadmill to be on a treadmill, I’m on the treadmill so I can get lighter and improve my breathing to become a better climber.”

Kara credits Aubrey Wingo’s tough love coaching skills as one of the reasons she pushes herself so hard now.

"Aubrey whooped my butt. If I fell off a 5.7 I would just feel like 'Eh, I don't wanna do this', but she would not let me down. She would say ‘I'm not bringing you down until you do that move because I know you can do that move.’ So I would get really mad and I would kinda fume up there for a minute and just try to do it again just to get her to let me down, and I would end up finishing the route. She pushed me a lot."

Another hurdle Kara faced when she first began climbing was her height, or so she thought.

“Jess is an inspiration. When I see her climb I no longer have the excuse of ‘Well I’m just short so it’s harder for me.' Charlie [was also an inspiration] because he is the most static climber I’ve ever seen. He has amazing footwork and he’s also around my height.”

Aside from her progression in rock climbing, Kara also picked up some rewarding lifestyle changes while working here.

“I learned to relax a lot. I used to be a pretty uptight person. It makes me more productive to just take a chill pill once in a while. Come in and climb. Climbing is a great activity because you have to put all of your mental energy into what you are doing on the walls. So you can't think about anything else. Unless you wanna fall. Climbing is different; it doesn’t feel like a sport because it’s so individual. It really feels like something that you do for yourself.”

Though Kara is going off to start a new and exciting chapter in her life, she will always have a place for Aiguille in her heart. “[I will miss] feeling like I am apart of all this craziness. There’s always all this stuff going on and I like being in that inner circle. Helping to move things forward, helping to improve the gym and just being apart of it.”

While she is not set on her future plans, she is also in no rush to be. “I've learned recently that it is good to have specific goals, but its not good to box yourself into something. I think that I’ve found what I really want is to be happy and to use the skills that I have to their full potential. So whether that means opening a coffee shop or starting a marketing company, I just want to feel like I'm doing everything that I know I'm capable of.”

Kara, from the bottom of our hearts, thank you for all that you have done and inspired in us. We have had many great moments and memories because of you and the amount of love and dedication you put into Aiguille. We couldn’t have done it without you. Good luck to you and everything you aspire to achive.

ABS Competition Re-Cap!!

2011-10-24T13:37:00.007-04:00

By RyAnn Lugo

As the Aiguille gym filled with competitors, parents, and friends on the morning of the American Bouldering Series Competition, there was an undeniable ambiance of excitement passing through, along with the snazzy new ABS T-Shirts. Aside from the brand new, brightly colored holds, it's obvious that Mark and his choice team of route setters put a lot of thought into crafting exciting new boulder problems for this year's comp. As a "Red Point" competition, the competitors had 4 hours to climb the routes of their choice. The harder the routes, the more points they are worth. At the end of the competition, climbers submit their top 5 scores, including the number of falls, which deduct 10 points each. < To learn more about Red Point and other competitions, click here: http://www.indoorclimbing.com/comp_types.html >

The 50 new routes, extending into the lead cave and far left walls, are among some of the favorites in ABS history, and will remain until the Dead Hang Halloween event on the 28th. According to Mark, the route-setting team's main objective was to set as many fun and aesthetically pleasing routes as possible, challenging climbers on route reading and new techniques to add to their climbing repertoire. "One of the most important aspects of comp-setting," says Mark, "is being fair to all sizes, skill levels and styles, taking into consideration different strengths and weaknesses. For instance, problems on a slab wall are well suited for a climber with more delicate movements, as opposed to something that requires more strength, like an overhang problem. You always want a balanced amount of technical and powerful routes."

As the competition progressed, participants stayed psyched with the help of JSHIH (pronounced Jay-Shee), Aiguille's personal DJ, whose beats were a favorite aspect of the competition. "JSHIH is awesome," says Ben Hoberg. "He kept me psyched." JSHIH DJs for just about every major Aiguille event and you can check out his music at: http://www.facebook.com/jshihmusic?ref=ts

If you are new to climbing, and/or competitions, some of the following interviews should provide insight to the ABS experience, as some of the top placing competitor's answer questions about their personal journeys.

Jeni Collins

Taking first in the women’s advanced, at 13700 points, Jeni Collins shares some of her most memorable moments during the comp as well as some vital advice for new climbers:

What was your favorite route? I had a really good save on the blue V5 route (#44). I felt really strong on it, but as I was about to complete it, I almost barn-doored off. I was able to catch it though, and finished. So, I really like that route because I felt really good about that. It’s pretty memorable and, overall, I thought all the routes were great.

What training benefited you the most? That’s a tough question because I actually haven’t been climbing that much this semester. Haha! I was just focusing on bouldering more and building strength.

What did you have for breakfast?: I made a yogurt parfait - vanilla yogurt, strawberries, chocolate chips, and granola.

Do you get nervous at competitions and what do you do to calm your nerves?: I was pretty nervous for this one, but what I think helped the most was just remembering to breathe - before I get on a route and, more importantly, while I’m on a route, so that I don’t get too pumped.

What do your workouts consist of? I climb about twice a week. When training, I warm up by bouldering, then move to top-rope and/or lead climbing. I often use the hang-board and do pull ups as well.

What else do you do besides climbing? Paddle-boarding is really fun. Its like a 9 foot surfboard that you stand on and paddle. It’s great for working on balance and core. My Dad let me borrow his paddle-board and Rollins is right on a lake, so I like to do that as often as I can. I also like to swim and, since I live right next to the gym at Rollins, so I work out there too. But I mostly just climb.

As the president of the Rollins Climbing Team, how do you motivate your climbers? I remind them that everyone starts out the same, no matter what you’ve done before. Like anything else, it’s a process that requires hard work in order to grow.

What are some of the plans that the Rollins Team has for this year? Right now we are raising money for CCS (the Collegiate Climbing Series) so that we can get more competitors. Last year, we had about 4 climbers competing consistently, and the year before that it was just me. Haha! So, we are hoping to continue to bring it up and bring 4 or 5 new climbers with us to CCS and other competitions as well.

What is some of the most important advice that you think a new climber should have? Many beginners don’t think about using their legs, which, since they have much more muscle mass compared to your arms, they have more strength. If you rely more on your legs, you use up less energy, and therefore climb longer. The best thing to do when starting out is simply to climb a lot and watch other people to get the technique. Another really important thing to work on is abs. For new climbers, I think working core strength is just as important and overlooked as relying on leg strength.

To Jeni’s disappointment, she was not be able to finish harder routes in the right column, but she certainly had the potential, considering that she hadn’t trained very much and still one first in her category! She hopes to regain 1st place in this year’s CCS competition. She says, “I got first two years ago and last year I got second. So, I’m hoping for first again this time around.” At Nationals, Jeni also hopes to reoccupy a place within the top five again this year.

Ben Hoberg

Taking 2nd place in Men's Open category, with 2300 points, Ben Hoberg, also offered some great advice for new climbers, as well as some of his special training secrets:

What was your favorite route in this years comp? I really liked the overhung teal one in overhang in lead area (#40). It has some really interesting movements, plus, it was kind of funny because I found out later that my Dad had set it.

Even though this was a local competition, were you nervous? What do you do to calm nerves?: No, I wasn't nervous for this one, but for bigger comps, definitely listening to crazy music, like Dub-step, or a song called "Bodies (Let the Bodies Hit the Floor)," by Drowning Pool. That one gets me going, makes me forget that I'm nervous.

What training benefited you the most? Working lock off strength.

What did you eat for breakfast? A McSkillet from McDonalds. Yep!

How did you build your technique? Just climbing for a long time and feeling the natural movement. It's different for everybody. But the more you climb at your limit, working problems beyond your abilities, the better you become. Even if you can't do it right away, if you keep working at it, you will get it eventually.

What do your workouts consist of? I usually do a thing called "600 Moves," which is a bunch of laps, lock offs, and then the next day I just run and do a full workout.
Is there anything else you do to workout outside of the gym?: Outside of the gym, I like a bit of everything, but my hobbies right now are Frisbee and Long-boarding.

Biggest mistake that new climbers make?: Poor technique, but that's all part of starting out. Probably one of the most important things is knowing how to fall. Sometimes new people hit the ground like a brick, instead of redirecting the energy. It's easy to twist an ankle or a knee coming down. It's also really important to be conscious of bringing your feet down when slipping off of an overhung problem. You don't want to fall on your back. So, I'd say that one of the obstacles for beginners to overcome is getting comfortable with being up high and learning how to fall without getting hurt.

Starting out, did you have a mentor or coach? My mentor is Jim Lott, who has climbed here since the gym opened. He's really cool. I actually still work for him sometimes, doing lawn maintenance.

What are your hopes for future competitions or climbing endeavors?: Want to be top 5 in the international ranking.

Cody Seibert

Cody Seibert, who was tied with Hoberg at 2300 points, with only one more fall, took 3rd place in the Men's Open category. He also offered some great advice for new climbers as well as first time competitors:

What strategies would you share with a first time competitor? First, I would typically warm up for about 15 - 20 minutes. After warming up I figure out the grade based on how a route looks/feels. I correlate the point values of routes to this estimated grade. That way you get a good idea of what you want to go for in terms of your own skill level. For younger kids, it's important to read the routes and make sure the moves are within your reach.

What did you eat for breakfast? A bowl of cereal... And maybe 4 glasses of milk.

What training to you think helped you the most? Climbing hard is always the best training, but I was working specifically on pinch strength.

What was your favorite route? The orange V8 (#42) in the lead cave; it is overhung and has lots of crimps.

How do you calm your nerves before a competition? I really don't think about it; I just kind of show up. One thing that helps me focus before getting on a route is taking a deep breath and holding it for about 10 seconds.

What are your hopes for future competitions? I'm always looking to improve but I don't really focus on winning. I just do it because it's fun.

Davis Stewart

Taking first in Youth-A category, with 51800 points, 15 year-old Davis Stewart agrees that these routes are some of the most creative among the past ABS competitions, specifically the Orange V7 on the wave (#14) and the Green V4 in the lead cave (#43).

What do you do to calm your nerves before a competition?: I don't really get stressed out at locals, but when it comes to nationals, I just stretch and breathe.

What did you eat for breakfast?: An Everything Bagel with Cream Cheese.

What training do you think helped you advance in the recent months?: Climbing with people of higher skill level and making up new routes with them.

What advice would you give for new climbers?: Climb with people of your skill level or higher and invent new routes. It's a perfect way to exchange beta and new techniques.

Davis trains at least 3 times a week with Team Aiguille and hopes to make the US Team, which is the top 4 in Nationals.

Rachel Carr
Aiguille climber of 4 years and first place for the Women's Youth-A category, with 17400 points, Rachel Carr talks about her strategies and overall climbing experience:

For many climbers, it is important to have a strategy. Did you have one and what was it? I watched how other people were doing the routes and tried not to tire myself out. I warmed up on some of the easier routes, took a 15 minute break, warmed up again, and then went for the harder routes.

What did you eat for breakfast? Eggs and a plain bagel.

What was your favorite route? The pink one with big volumes, in the lead cave (#32).

From what training do you feel you benefited the most? Working hard problems with other people and lots and lock-offs and crimps.

What do you calm your nerves before a competition? Listening to my iPod usually helps me block everything out so I can focus on warming up. I really try to forget about the competition and focus on my own goals.

Do you do anything outside of climbing to work out? I like to run sometimes. Cardio is pretty important.

What advice would you give new climbers? Always warm up to avoid ripping tendons or other injuries. Climb hard, train harder, even if you feel like puking.

Rachel trains at least 3 times a week with Team Aiguille. She hopes to someday win Nationals and get sponsored by a major company.

All of the climbers interviewed share a common mindset that winning is never as important as having fun. For these guys and girls, climbing is a life-style and coming out on top is simply another perk to doing what they love. For them, and just about any chalky-faced climber you talk to, it’s not only a tool for leading a healthy lifestyle, but also a gateway into an awesome community of people and developing long lasting friendships. With that said, Aiguille is proud to look back on yet another successful ABS Competition, as the community grew together as climbers, but more importantly, came together as super awesome people. Congratulations to everyone who competed this year, both new and experienced climbers, and good luck in the other local competitions taking place this bouldering season.

Aiguille’s Third Annual Dead Hang: A Halloween Affair Party & Competition

2011-10-24T13:34:00.003-04:00

by Kayla Baker

Throw off your sneakers and get rid of those bags! The only Trick-or-Treating you should be doing this Halloween is at Aiguille at our Third Annual Dead Hang: A Halloween Affair Party & Competition. This competition, the theme will be set to portray a dark romantic feeling. Costumes are still a must, though, as the winner of this year’s Costume Contest will be receiving a prize from one of our sponsors!

Not only will we be having a Costume Contest, but what is an Aiguille competition anymore without JSHIH?! That’s right; JSHIH will be making those sick beats yet again at the Dead Hang! Don’t miss out on the Battle for the Paddle Ping Pong Comp that will be going on as well for those who need a rest from all the new bouldering problems!

This Dead Hang Comp, we will be doing something extra special to show our love for this fun holiday. Outside, there will be a Pumpkin Carving Competition, with generous donations from All Pro Dad from the Sanlando Pumpkin Patch. Aiguille’s sponsors for prizes will be Rock & Ice, Gramicci, Joshua Tree, Mad Rock, Outdoor Technology, Nemo, SoIll, Wild Country, Mix1, La Sportiva, Red Chili, and FiveTen. Our raffle will be held to support the Friends at Muir Valley. (You can find more information about them at http://www.friendsofmuirvalley.org/.)

The weather is forecasted to be “absolutely beautiful” on Friday, so the Bay Door will most likely be open. Climbers, prepare for some fresh air instead of that constant white lung we are so used to! Registration will be from 5:00pm – 7:00pm and climbing will go from 7:00pm until 11:00pm. Awards and raffle will be held after climbing until midnight. Prices are $15.00 for Members and $20.00 for Non Members.

For any additional information on next week’s Halloween Competition, visit our Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=178322382250439! See you there!

Hang Board and Crash Pad Sale!!

2011-10-24T13:16:00.003-04:00

By Ryann Lugo and Alex Velandia

Cooler weather means bouldering season has arrived! Prepare yourself by taking home one of our new hang boards and crash pads that are on sale at irresistible bargains.

Hang-boards:

LIVINGOOD BOARD
Our new hangboards are equipped with a variety of useful features for training and building finger strength, including a SoiLL "Livingood Board" which is currently marked down 20%! This hang-board comes in bright orange and its rough resin texture is great for building calluses. It's merciless when it comes to working crimps offering a sharp half pad ledge, dead center, with a less painful full pad option on the sides. The top of this board includes a barely in-cut sloper ledge to hang on, with mini jugs on either side. Below the two finger and four finger pockets, that litter the face of the board, are two very unforgiving pinches which once turned upside down offer an even worse sloper option. This hang-board is reversible to give you either a positive or negative surface. It's perfect to hang from any door frame and makes finger conditioning most convenient. (Here's a hint to hanging this beast, it's a bit heavier so make sure you always screw these into studs of the walls and ask BEFORE you drill.)

V3 HANGBOARD
Our a black and yellow "V3 Hangboard," by the Detroit Rock Climbing Company, is a perfect complement to any small apartment due to its low profile and ability to be hung on screws above a door frame or anyplace when your legs can swing. Although small, it has many features. The largest grips on the board are mini jugs located on each end on the top and the smallest is a half-pad crimp on the bottom. The texture gives a little bit of friction, but not much. This one is definitely not for the light of heart.

V5.12 HANGBOARD
For those Bob Marley fans (wink, wink) check out our Rastafarian themed "V5.12 Hangboard," by the Detroit Rock Climbing Company. This hang-board has a lot of features including just under twice the amount of pockets as the V3, meaning wider and heavier. With texture on the top and bottom of holds this hang board is very invert-able if your fingers ever get bored. Pinches on either end will test your forearms and with their angle pointing inward you could say even more ergonomic (perhaps?). With varying depths of pockets this board will certainly help you get over your plateau and maybe even climb those 5.12s you wish you could lead.

ROCK RINGS
If you want something really nifty, come check out a device called Rock Rings, which are also for working crimps and building finger strength. An interesting benefit in these is that, since they are separate from each other, they work independently, so it forces you to work the arms equally, as opposed to a fixed pull up bar or hang board. Many times, someone training may work one side harder than the other without realizing it, so this handy device helps to keep a fair balance.

Crash Pads:

DROP ZONE
Get a Black Diamond "Drop Zone" crash pad with a 30% discount off of the marked price. Designed for durability and usability, it's no wonder why "Drop Zone" is Black Diamond's best selling crash pad. Their anti-slide, waterproof material make it exceptionally durable and usable, and its convenient folding design and straps make it easy to transport. Click here for more detailed description: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/bouldering/drop-zone-crash-pad/

STOMP CRASH PAD
We also have Metolius "Stomp Crash Pad"s for 25% off. Their light, compact design makes it perfect for cramped road trips, tight spaces, and long hikes. Click for more details: http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/item/113546/N/0?cmpn=979100&sendroicid=218bb936-4a82-4bde-8646-b6af6069fe42&sendroiad=7842371895&sendroikwd=stomp+crash+pad+%28Phrase%29&gclid=COTtvv_J6asCFUPt7Qodc3Wuxw

Aiguille Rock Climbing Center's ABS 13 Competition - Oct. 1, 2011

2011-10-24T12:56:00.008-04:00

by Aubrey Wingo

Nothing could bring more excitement to Aiguille Rock Climbing Center in Longwood, FL than the ABS 13 Competition on October 1st, 2011. Greeted with the first cool weather of the season, with doors wide open, Aiguille welcomed its competitors first thing in the morning to pick up their sponsor goodies and comp shirts, designed by Guillermo Casanova (http://guillermo-casanova.com/), and to start previewing their future sends of the day. Scorecards in hand, climbers from the youngest in the Youth-D division of USA Climbing to our Masters competitors (45+), scurried around frantically planning out their strategies and reading the beta of 50 brand new boulder problems set by national route setter, Mark Mercer as well as David Carmona, Aubrey Wingo, Eugene Hoberg, Jackson Clemmer and Jesse Falcon.

Rules were announced and the climbing began along with musical motivation from our DJ, JSHIH. The walls were littered with color from hold designers E-Grips, Rock Candy, Project and many more, some brand new out of the box for our climbers to test for the first time. The gym was also filled with many who were not climbing; supportive parents from Team Aiguille and other gyms cheering on their kids, volunteer spotters from the Aiguille member family and Aiguille staff members making sure the comp ran smoothly. There were flashes and falls, sends and sore tips; overall, a fantastic show of athletic performance, good sportsmanship, and well-executed competition.

Jim Norton, the regional representative for USA Climbing hastily tallied the scores while the tired competitors conversed about their day and munched on pizza provided by the Rollins Rock Climbing Club. The raffle was about to begin and everyone bundled close to our announcers RyAnn Lugo and Kayla Baker with ticket or even many tickets in hand hoping to be the lucky winner of a prize; maybe even a pair of Mad Rock Climbing shoes! When the raffle box was empty, the winners were announced, receiving their very own ABS USA Climbing ribbon and prize packs from our wonderful sponsors. Top awards received their own Bluewater climbing rope, Mad Rock Climbing shoes, Gramicci shirts, Climb On! gift set or even a free month membership at Aiguille. Every one of our winners are now also proud owners of their very own La Sportiva Coozie and Yowie by Outdoor Technology as well as many other great prizes.

This event could not be put on if it wasn’t for our sponsors, entertainment, and volunteers. Special thanks goes to our sponsors: Mad Rock Climbing, La Sportiva, Gramicci, Outdoor Technology, Mile High Mountaineering, Climb On!, Bluewater, C.A.M.P., Red Chili, Rollins Climbing Club, USA Climbing, JSHIH, and all our volunteer spotters.

Winners will be announced soon on Aiguille Rock Climbing Center’s Facebook page (www.facebook.com/aiguilleclimbing) and USA Climbing’s website (www.usaclimbing.org).

AVERAGE JOE’S GYNASIUM

2011-10-24T12:50:00.005-04:00

Can you climb wrong? (A layman’s guide to climbing)

Short answer is no, as long as you’re making some upward movement, I guess that can be considered climbing. The question you should ask is, “Is there a better way to climb?” Answer - Of course there is a better way to climb.

ef•fi•cient - /iˈfiSHənt/ adj. - Achieving maximum productivity with minimum wasted effort.

Efficiency could be the difference between you getting just past your crux on your project route and having just enough juice left over to finish the [expletive] thing.

It’s the little things you don’t think about when you’re on a route that make all the difference in the world. Little things like finding a comfortable place on a route to take a rest, somewhere you can shake out, chalk up, take a breath and plan your next moves.

When climbing try to keep your arms straight! This allows the majority of your bodyweight to “hang on your bones” rather than using muscle that selfishly steals your energy when your arms are bent and muscles flexed. Remember, when that crux comes, you want to be able to dig deep and have some energy left.

A great way to train on arm endurance is something I call “Don’t Underestimate Hanging,” or if that’s too long to remember you can use the acronym (D.U.H.) Practice those dead hangs on Aiguille’s hangboards. Mark "The Professional" Mercer gave me a great tip when I was first starting out; find the worst hold you can hang on for any amount of time, once that amount of time reaches 8 seconds find an even worse hold. Training dead hangs might not look that impressive but it pays dividends.

Until next time train smart, climb hard.

Alex Velandia

USAC Level 1 Routesetting Clinic

2011-10-18T23:29:00.000-04:00

2011 Lead World Cup in Boulder, CO

2011-10-12T21:35:00.001-04:00

2011 UBC Nor'easter

2011-10-02T12:16:00.001-04:00

Adios, Amigo!

2011-09-26T13:47:00.012-04:00

by RyAnn Lugo

As many of you already know, Charlie, Aiguille employee of 6 years, Assistant Manager, and one of your favorite route setters, has moved to Brazil with his lovely new wife, Roberta. (Yes, they finally “tied the knot!”) Both of them received their degrees this year, Charlie in Financing and Berta in Educational Leadership, and are setting out on a new adventure. See, it’s easy to write an article, but to capture the essence of such an admired person and great friend of so many years, that is "Chuckles," "Brown Bear," "Char-Char," “Chalupa,” “Spanish” (though he doesn’t speak a lick of Spanish), was going to be a rather difficult task - especially since almost everyone, when asked, "What are you going to miss the most about Charlie?", simply sighed and shook their heads. It’s as if the question invoked a million moments and sent them bouncing around in their memories. As Alex Velandia, Aiguille Assistant Manager and friend of 3 years, said, “What can anyone say about Charlie that you don’t figure out for yourself within the first few minutes of meeting him?” It’s obvious that there is so much about the guy that cannot be pinned down on paper, or summarized with just a few recollected moments, but the event of his departure calls for a very loving farewell.

Demonstrating great talent from the get-go, though he was quiet as a mouse, many of the members here have witnessed Charlie’s rapid growth as a climber and as a person, from a little baby boulderer into a full-fledged Big Daddy boulderer. In fact, at his first competition he earned 2nd place in the Men’s Advanced category. He was also the very first National Champion in the Collegiate Climbing Series, representing UCF, and he dominated the Tampa Bouldering Series last year. Aside from those victories, he has also participated in over a dozen other competitions and memorable bouldering climbing adventures country-wide. “His favorite sport climbing spot is The Red River Gorge in Kentucky and his first choice for bouldering is Horse Pens 40, in Alabama. His climbing achievements have certainly earned him a spot in the Aiguille hall of fame. To read more about Charlie’s beginnings and other fun facts, you can read his climber bio: http://aiguilleroutesetting.blogspot.com/2009/11/charles-antonio-garcia-iii.html?m=0

“Working at Aiguille was amazing. Being so close to the sport everyday helped me progress as a climber and person. I really do feel like Aiguille was my second college. I spent more time there than at school (for better or worse haha). I wouldn't trade it for anything.”

Some of those who have climbed with him would describe his climbing style as controlled, heady ninja. “I love watching Charlie climb,” says Kara Werner, “because he's almost as short as I am! I got lots of great beta from him. His climbing style is very technical. He gives lots of attention to where he places his feet, and most of his moves are static.” Though a careful, quiet climber, Charlie has also been known as a bit of a daredevil. “He likes to high ball,” says Mark Mercer, our Head Route Setter and one of Charlie’s closest climbing buddies. “Highlights of climbing trips have often been of him sending (and sometimes not sending) tall and scary problems. He is a walking, talking guidebook to every bouldering area he’s been to. He remembers names, grades and, most importantly, beta to any boulder problem he’s tried. He remembers specific details like the shapes of footholds. Crazy.” Chase Heatwole, Aiguille member of 5 years, describes Charlie’s climbing as some of the smoothest he’s ever seen. He says, “There are those who just power through, and then there’s Charlie, who simply ascends.” Dean Pflaumer, remembers when he first started climbing at the gym. “We used to make fun of him because, instead of breaking out a rope for tall walls, he just climbed them.” Legend also has it that Charlie would hunt through YouTube videos of the classics in order to gain powerful beta wisdom.

“Probably my favorite times at Aiguille were when I first started climbing there, no ropes and tables. It was such a small community that on a busy night there maybe 20 people in the whole gym. I progressed as a climber the most then, and got to hang out with a lot of great climbers like Nick Sherman, Mr. Mark Mercer, Meagan Martin, Phil Adams, Alex Manikowski, and my main man Tommy Terrell. Seriously a total of 5-7 people making "adventures" up on the wave, getting strong! I have to also admit that even though the gym can get packed at times nowadays, I love seeing so many members psyched on climbing and sharing the same passion I have for struggling up a rock climb! Seriously having a gym full of people who know the joy of climbing is indescribable.”

It wasn’t long after Charlie started climbing that Mark noticed Charlie’s unmistakable promise and asked him to join the Aiguille Route Setting Family. When members were asked to describe his route setting, interestingly enough, “burly” and “technical” were the he two words used together. Becky Kiley, Team Aiguille member of many years agrees with others that his routes vary, depending on his mood. “They’re usually not very ‘reachy,” she said. “I never really knew who set what but usually I’d find out that the routes that I was working on were one of his.” Another climber at Aiguille, Alex Bosak, describes his routes as “innovative and fun.”

Of all the places to start a new life, Brazil might seem like a strange choice. Charlie explains, “I went to Brazil last summer and absolutely loved it. The people were incredibly nice, even though I couldn't speak a lick of Portuguese. My wife and I were looking for new jobs in better locations (Sorry Orlando. Haha!) for working outdoors, specifically North Carolina. Unfortunately, we couldn't find a position for either of us, then the idea came up to head to Brazil, where a lot of Roberta's family lives. One thing led to another, her family made an offer we couldn't refuse, and we are on a new adventure!!!” Charlie explains that his lady will be helping him with his Portuguese till he is fluent enough to be a diving instructor. After that, he hopes to use his dual language skills to get a job in finance.

Though he’s far away from climbing buddies, he plans to continue to train. “I'm bringing a hang board,” he says. “I just want to keep progressing, (climb v10 one day), and make some cool climbing friends in Brazil. There is a lot of rock there, even though it is 2 hours away, so expect to see videos very soon!” If you would like to keep in touch, you can find him on Facebook and stay updated on his adventure. Also, keep your eyes peeled around the gym within the next year because he plans on visiting soon.

It took some time, but once my interviewees were able to sort out their thoughts, I was finally able to get some straight answers to the loaded question: What are you going to miss the most about Charlie?

Mark Mercer: “I am going to miss having a reliable friend who was always down to have fun. And I’m going to miss his routes… Did I mention they were very underrated?”

Kayla Baker: “I’ll miss his cool, calm, and collective personality. He is a good friend and listener and he had a silly, subtle sense of humor.”

Dean Pflaumer: “Charlie never had a bad thing to say about anyone.”

Karl Antenucci: “He’s a hoot.”

Alex Bosak: “He’s the man.”

Phil Basti: “I’ll miss his sense of humor and diverse routes.”

Some guy: “He always had cool shoes.”

Kenny Bonnette: “I’ll miss his fresh tank tops and his incredible route setting. He set some of my most favorite routes.”

Tara Ziegler: “Charlie was someone I could always rely on to be there for me, in climbing or just as someone to talk to. He is such a big part of why Aiguille is a second home to me. He is truly one of best friends.”

Megan Harrington: “I’ll miss his imagination and his ability to come up with crazy stories at baby showers.”

Kara Werner: “No matter how hard or stressful your day was, Charlie could always make you feel better. He tried to stay positive about most things, and could always slip a joke into a conversation. Charlie loves pizza! The first time I realized this was after seeing him eat pizza for lunch and dinner 3 days in a row. He makes climbing look easy, that's how you know he's a great climber! Oh, and his best kept secret is that he was actually born in Mexico.”

Aubrey Wingo: “Every day of work would start off with a call or text. ‘Want food?’ And depending on who opened we would bring the other one lunch. I don’t even think there was ever an exchange of money! But it was something to look forward to every day. I feel like no one really understood the stresses of the job more than him because of working the same shift and it certainly easy to talk to him about the issues because we probably felt the same way! My mornings will never be the same since I don’t have Charlie’s humor! Oh si si Charlie! I will miss you! Even if you don’t know how to say black beans and rice in Spanish. Keep sending those V11s on the beach!”

Alex Velandia: “He was one of the most genuine people I know, who was always quick with advice. One of the strongest couch climbers that I know and I’ve always admired him for it. There was always a crazy zen-like aura that encompassed him as he climbed and was as fluid as the Spanish he didn’t speak. We can only hope that he finds a community as loving and caring that he will always have here. Best of luck, Chuckles, with the wife and life! Climb Hard!”

Justin Steakly: “Learn Spanish!”

As Alex said before, it really only takes a few moments with Charlie to get a sense that you’ve just met one of the coolest people alive. I’ve learned a great deal about him through hearing his Aiguille family sift through their memories. It goes without saying that “Carlos Antonio Garcia Los Tres” will be missed without a doubt, but his fierce climbing spirit will remain within the crags of Aiguille Rock Climbing Gym forever. If you listen closely, you can still hear it howling through the boulder cave, saying, “Ooohh. Si, Siiii...”

Final Words:
“Special shout out to K. Werner and Dean for teaching me a lot of hard working and climbing knowledge that I will carry on throughout my life. I also want to say thank you to anyone I've talked to, climbed or worked with. You have all had a hand in making my Aiguille experience one I will never ever forget. As you might expect, keep climbing just because it is fun and a great release from the daily grind. Make as many trips to outdoor areas as possible because, and I almost hate to say it, but what we do in the gym is just practice for the real thing: outdoors, in nature, climbing real rocks with a group of friends who share the same love for scampering up a boulder (or cliff). I will continue climbing until my fingers fall off, and then I'll start trad climbing. Hahahaha! (Love you Dean!). I hope Aiguille continues to grow, one day to the point of moving to a larger and newer facility. I know my boys Karl and David C. will keep that place running smooth with the help of Kara and Aubrey. I have no worries about the future of Aiguille and the awesome events that will happen in the future (hopefully I can make it back for one!) I will be on Facebook posting pictures of my travels and hope any and everyone who wants to visit hits me up! Thanks again for everything, including this article and I'll reply back as soon as I get to a computer when I arrive in Brazil. Wish me and my new wifey luck!”

Meet...Dean Pflaumer

2011-09-26T13:25:00.003-04:00

by Tara Ziegler

“The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun”. –Alex Lowe

There is a new breed of climbers developing that are taking the sport in a very competitive direction. In almost any gym you walk in, you are bound to find a majority of the “regulars” training for upcoming competitions or some pretty ridged personal goals. Another type of climber you will also see are the ones that embody Lowe’s quote, as simple as it may seem.

At Aiguille, that climber would undeniably be Dean Pflaumer. I can guarantee there is no other person here that has as much climbing knowledge and skill, who remains one of the friendliest and most helpful members in our community. A veteran of Aiguille, you have probably had him help you with some type of outdoor question, beta for a route or quoting movies. However there are only a few people who know the depth behind Dean’s climbing background and everything this man (…myth, legend…) has accomplished in the decade he has been a part of the sport…all while just having fun.

A native of Pennsylvania, Dean moved with his family to Florida when he was 11 years old. His sister, Diedre, fled the state after college as soon as she could embark on a new chapter in her life, in a state with a little more density. In December 2000 she introduced Dean to Aiguille and her new passion. A week later he had a membership and within months he was working at his new second home. “It was definitely a sport, but it was also a lifestyle and that’s what caught on to me real quick. It got under my skin way fast. ”

Mainly bouldering during his first two years of climbing, he didn’t exactly get approached by too many people looking for a partner. “It was stupid stuff like dyno-ing and campus-ing. I would scream at the top of my lungs while I was climbing. I was that guy. ” Once he began top-roping, fellow employees took him under their wing and began teaching him how to lead climb. That was just the beginning. “Whether you’re a climber or employee, it’s incredible how it’s a family. It’s a church. I remember thinking when I first started climbing here ‘this is my home’ and it still is. It is for a lot of people here.”

Through the years Dean has vastly improved in his knowledge and skill level in the sport. He has traveled and climbed all up and down the East Coast from his first ever trip to Lost Wall Georgia to The Gunks in New York. He has also been all over around the West including Colorado, California, Washington, and Oregon. One of his most memorable trips to Colorado was when he and Diedre had to dodge a train “Stand by Me” style and complete a Tyrolean traverse on a cable 30 feet above a river, and that was just the approach. After Dean lead his first 10d in 60 mile an hour winds, his sister took to the wall where she dislocated her knee only 10 feet up, forcing them to pack up and head back down.

Though luckily he has not experienced any real injuries or accidents, he did have one very close call. While ice climbing 25 feet up Dean swung out from the wall and as he came back two of the front points on his crampons landed perfectly on either side of the rope, barely missing it.

Dean has racked up a great deal of knowledge and training in both climbing and mountaineering. Aside from being a certified Climbing Wall Instructor by both the CWA & AMGA, he also has experience in trad-climbing, self-rescue, ice climbing, crevasse rescue, alpine climbing and everything in between. Currently he is in the process of becoming a single-pitch instructor. His main goal is to be a professional outdoor guide.

None of this training is new to Dean. He has been soaking up anything he can learn about climbing since the day he started. “If I found someone who worked here and knew something, I wanted to learn it. And once I learned it I would practice. I remember being taught how to ascend and I would come late Saturday or Sunday night, go back to where no one was and practice over and over and over. People would look at me like I was crazy. It’s a lot of boring hard work.”

Even at his extremely respectable level of climbing, Dean’s number one priority is to not take himself too seriously and to always have a good time on the wall.

“I don’t train hard and climbing is so cool that you don’t have to be good to enjoy it. There’s just something sublime, the sense of accomplishment that you get. Whether you send a project route or not, just getting on the wall and doing something both physical and mental at the same time, there’s nothing else like it. The numbers that you climb are not as important as people put stock into.”

Team Aiguille: Show Us Your Teeth!

2011-09-26T13:16:00.002-04:00

by RyAnn Lugo

Everyone please welcome back Team Aiguille, a group of vivacious kids, ages 6-19, and 1st place winners of the SCS Regional Competition last season! Sanctioned by USA Climbing (USAC), these young sprites are training hard for upcoming Florida competitions, like the VAB competition (Oct 1st), and the chance to qualify for Divisional, National, and even World Championships. So, if you notice that the gym is a bit fuller on these nights and there is a strange, powerful energy in the air, that’s just the mighty spirit of Team Aiguille preparing for battle.

The team not only focuses on physical training and fitness, but members also learn new technique, build endurance and strength, as well as self-confidence. Members also learn the invaluable importance of sportsmanship and respect for other competitors.

Aiguille also has a Recreational Team for those climbers who are not interested in competing and just want a fun way to improve their climbing ability! Practices will mimic those of the competitive team, but without the pressure and strict training.

All team practices are on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 6:30pm – 8:30pm and Saturdays from 9am-11am. Anyone who is interested in trying it out may come in for ONE NIGHT of practice at no cost!

If you have or know someone with a spunky young sprite who wants to have some fun and be a part of a fast growing sport, the team flyers are located at the front of the counter, or you can contact Jessica Jenkins, team coordinator, at: TeamAiguille@gmail.com.

Go Team Aiguille!

ABS 13 Comp.

2011-09-26T12:51:00.003-04:00

by Kreg Dobzinksi

We are proud to be hosting yet another American Bouldering Series competition at our illustrious gym on October 1st. A whole bunch of pristine new routes will be set and registration will commence at 10:00am. The actual climbing starts at 11:00am and will continue until 3:00pm. As usual, the raffle and awards are last, but definitely not least, at 4:00pm. I know many of you don't really believe in wearing shirts at the gym, but a free competition shirt is always nice when you forgot to do your one-thousandth crunch, and if you want to snag one make sure you arrive early!

The pricing is as follows: $30 for Aiguille members and $35 for everyone else. There would be an additional $5 if you are not yet a USAC member and be sure to remember your card and number if you are. Be aware that competitors cannot enter the gym between 9/28/2010 to 9/30/2010. On a final note, your ears will be pleased to know that JSHIH will be in control of the music!

Speaking of my man JSHIH, he was yet again spinning out monstrous beats during our most recent Aiguille After Dark. It was actually a little dimmer than usual and the new top rope routes put various climbers on an emotional roller coaster, toeing the line between athletic perfection and mental anguish. Be sure to be on the lookout for the next one and we hope to see you there!

SETTER.

2011-09-26T12:38:00.006-04:00

by Kayla Baker

Do you ever feel like sometimes there just aren’t enough bouldering routes to satisfy? Do you find yourself creating your own routes, wishing they could somehow become a visible reality? Well then, do we have something for you! Whether you are just starting or if you have been climbing for what seems like your whole life, Setter is something that every climber can use to improve their climbing. It is a website that was made by climbers for climbers to create their own routes and post them so that others can share and send them.

Setter started as an idea by two of our very own Aiguille boulderers, Cody Seibert and Tommy Terrell. They were always creating new routes in the gym, and they wanted a way to share these routes with other climbers. With the help of Guillermo Casanova and a few others, the idea of Setter became a reality by the end of summer of 2011.

Not only is Setter a place where you can set and share new problems, but it also connects you to fellow climbers and puts you right in the middle of an amazing community of people. In doing this, you learn a lot about how other people climb and set.

It has been said by many that the key to getting better at bouldering and reading routes is not just climbing gym routes, but also setting and climbing routes of your own. Doing this forces you to think about every move before you make it and it helps you understand how to position your body and feet according to the move. Setting allows you to tap into your creative mind and understand how to better read routes in general, whether it be for competitions, in a gym, or on real rock. Above all else, it is fun! It is very rewarding to see other climbers send and comment on your routes. The support and critique from others is what really pushes you to become a stronger climber.

Although Setter is very new to us, there will constantly be changes and improvements being made, so keep an eye out! Also, be sure to give your opinions on the "Feedback" page so that Setter can grow to its maximum potential!

To start setting, sharing, and sending, visit thisissetter.com!!!

The Season

2011-09-26T12:29:00.003-04:00

by Kreg Dobzinksi

Tis the season! No, not for turkeys and family and presents, but for something way better - climbing. It is absolutely ludicrous that this time of year is called Fall when this time of year is all about sending. Now, I know some of you outdoor enthusiasts may be excited about the prospect of crimping on crisp razor cut holds or sticking to a sloper like velcro, but be aware that climbing outside has a whole other set of expectations.

First of all, why is Autumn more conducive to pebble wrestling? Basically, the lower temperatures create better friction and also allow you to climb with less heat fatigue. Also, most have been waiting/training since the end of spring so both physical strength and mental facility is often at maximum capacity. Although, those of you who have not climbed on real rock before should be aware that you may (and probably will) get shut-down on climbs at a grade you normally would be able to cruise. That's O.K., a few more sessions will hone your new route discerning skills. On the plus side, intermediate features and multiple beta sequences are more of a possibility making height and pure brute strength oftentimes less of a factor outdoors.

Speaking of the actual areas themselves, the southeast is the nearest to O-town and has a wealth of possibilities. Hundreds of the best boulder problems in the US are scattered through the areas of Rocktown, Stone Fort, and HP40. Sport and Trad climbing are no slouch either a little farther north in Tennessee, Kentucky and North Carolina. Planning would be prudent, but the main thing to do is just pick a spot a go. But wait, where's the tape? While there is something to be said for taking an on-sight approach to climbing in a new area, but with a guidebook your experience will most likely be more fulfilling. Knowing the cluster of grades in a certain area goes a long way because the ability to more fine-tune your warm-ups and prevent gassing out early. Additionally, most guidebooks will include a star rating that is a subjective measure of how pleasing it is to complete the noted climb and this can save you from picking a route with breakable holds or overly awkward movement. Conveniently, we have a wide variety of guidebooks for areas such as these in our pro-shop.

If camping, it would be smart to remember a few things. A major one would be to respect the area you have chosen and been allowed to climb at. 'Pack it in, Pack it out' is a simple waste management philosophy that basically states the intention to leave the location either the same or better than you found it. Access issues usually delicate and risking permanent closure due to simple laziness is unwise. Plus, you will have thousands of other angry climbers to deal with and I will tell them where you live. On a lighter note, research other cheap or free activities to do in the area because your hands only have so many layers of skin and need a rest day, but keep in mind if you are near rocks you are probably going to still want to climb them.

For eats, hitting up the local grocery store will be the cheapest, but if you plan on choosing a restaurant - please don't go somewhere you have been a million times before. Various websites like Urbanspoon and the word-of-mouth recommendations from the locals will probably provide a much more satisfying food experience. Most likely there will not be a water fountain installed at the base of that arête' you going to work on for a few hours. Cramping from dehydration is a very real possibility and because of the lower temperatures you will probably not notice until it already too late. Keeping both your outer campsite and inside your tent tidy goes a long way when having to pack it back up again. Lastly, remember the advice given by moms worldwide - bring a whole bunch of socks and underwear.

This is by no means a comprehensive overview of what to do in the outdoors, but I hope some of the information will become useful and got you a little psyched to get out there. Remember to be cautious and seriously weigh the risks of any climbing endeavor, but most of all enjoy yourself. If you have any questions regarding locations, various pieces of gear you might have to use outside, or are interested in grabbing one of our sweet, sweet guidebooks make sure to come on up to the front desk or email us at info@aiguille.com.

Munich Bouldering World Cup

2011-08-25T23:05:00.000-04:00

Welcome New Aiguille Staff!

2011-08-25T17:15:00.004-04:00

by: Tara Ziegler

Aiguille is pleased to announce the three newest and thoroughly amazing staff member's to join our family!

Joey, a climber at Aiguille for over two years, knows a good deal about our community and is always willing to assist a fellow climber with anything from a good harness recommendation to beta on a route. This UCF Knight prefers a good bouldering session to top-roping or leading, however you can sometimes catch him with his harness on.

Lauren is now the new "baby" of the Aiguille family but don't let her age fool you. This girl can out row you, out throw you, out run you, out jump you and will pretty soon be able to out climb you. Her physical abilities are only out shined by her amazing, positive attitude and approachable character.

Last but definitely not least we present Aiguille's "newbie", RyAnn. Though starting her climbing journey only a few months ago, she is quickly catching up to our veterans when it comes to being aware of all things climbing. When she is not home writing wonderfully entertaining scripts, you can catch her climbing at Aiguille 2-3 times a week. And if you do, please do not hesitate to stop by and introduce yourself.

Make a Move

2011-08-25T17:14:00.003-04:00

by: Kayla Baker

With summer coming to a close, and fall right around the corner, climbing trips are just moments away from being planned, and I’m sure that none of our climbers want to see any outdoor hot spots get shut down. Thankfully, there is an amazing organization that keeps these outdoor climbing areas open to climbers just like you. The Access Fund supports millions of climbers around the nation by keeping these parts of the United States open, whether it be ice climbing, mountaineering, bouldering, or sport climbing.

As some of you may or may not know, this year is the Access Fund’s 20th anniversary. At the time that the Access Fund was created in 1991, there were only a small amount of activists involved in this group, as well as only a minuscule amount of $10,000 to work with. Twenty years later, the Access Fund has grown to be home to over 10,000 members with a $1 million budget annually!!

I was recently inspired by Aiguille’s very own Climbing Director, Dean Pflaumer, who simply said, “If you are planning on taking an outdoor climbing trip, you need to be part of the Access Fund. They are the reason those spots are open for climbers.” I decided to do a lot more research and I, too, am now a member.

In joining the Access Fund, you get to help yourself and other climbers by keeping the spots that you love and have made unforgettable memories at open, now and for the future. For every dollar that is donated, 84 cents is used specifically for conserving the climbing environment around the nation. Memberships are one year long and start at ONLY $35.00 for the year! If you are feeling generous, for only $15.00 more, the Access Fund will give you your choice of a T-Shirt or Water Bottle.

Think about this...when you go on a climbing trip, what are you paying for? Camping, food, gas...what about the climbing? Well, the climbing is absolutely free for us. By paying $35.00 per YEAR for unlimited climbing, while being able to support the sport that we all love so much, is something that we should all do as climbers.

Aiguille donates to the Access Fund… and if you love climbing as much as we do, so should you. (Visit www.accessfund.org for more information).

Saved By the Bell

2011-08-25T17:12:00.004-04:00

by: Ryanne Lugo

Hey guys! We had a blast with you this summer. Climbing & Challenge Camp and the Beach Day Comp were huge successes, but, with summer vacation coming to an end, it’s time to prepare for the new school year. So, here is a quick reminder of all the cool stuff we have going on to get you ready for a bright and promising semester.

First off, summer hours are no more! Starting on September 1, Aiguille will be opening at 10am Sunday-Friday, and 9am on Saturdays. Closing time will be at 9pm on Sundays, 10pm Monday-Thursday, and 11pm Friday-Saturday.

Also, Student Friday has returned! Just make sure to grab your valid student ID’s, present it to the super nice Aiguille employee behind the counter, and climb for just $12! Gear included! Don’t forget your ID’s, though. We are all really nice, but no ID, no deal. Sowwrry. We know just what you need to get you through those long hours of studying and lectures. Take a break and work out some of that stress. Come “hang out” with us! Haha! Get it?

We know that getting organized for the new school year can be super expensive. But don’t worry, climbers. We’ve got your back! For the rest of August, we want you to take advantage of the many marked down prices in our Hugely Awesome Back To School Sale: 35% off of Five Ten “Teams” and select models of La Sportiva, stay cool in our stylish Aiguille tanks and T-shirts at 20% off (excluding Beach Day tanks), AND, with chilly Fall temperatures approaching, get ready by grabbing one of our awesome Aiguille hoodies, also at 20% off! So, while you’re out buying your crayons, boxes of tissues, sticks of glue, textbooks on Supersymmetric Quantum Mechanics, and other crazy subjects that normal people can’t pronounce, come check out all the hugely awesome stuff we have, for smaller prices! See you soon!

ABS Local 13

2011-08-25T17:09:00.002-04:00

The honor of hosting the 13th American Bouldering Series of this year goes to Aiguille on October 1st and we are encouraging you to come on out and support our local talent.

Registration will be 10:00am-11:00am and the climbing will proceed from 11:00am until 3:00pm. Pre-registration will be starting in September, so keep an eye out for that!

Now, we know you guys don’t come to competitions to climb…no, of course not. You come for the prizes, right?! Well, we promise we won’t let you down! We have some amazing sponsors this year, such as Mad Rock, Nemo Equipment, and Outdoor Technology, just to name a few.

We hope you guys are as excited as we are about this year’s Local ABS Competition!! Keep an eye out for pre-registration and mark your calendar! It’s just a matter of time before the posters go up!

Darkness Falls On Friday

2011-08-25T17:07:00.004-04:00

by: Kreg Dobzinkski

The previous Aiguille After Dark was undoubtedly the greatest event the world has ever seen, so now to keep it cool we are going to make it just a bit more difficult to see it. That's right, we are going to turn the lights down low.

The darkness will need to be banished and there will be glow-sticks galore, but you are encouraged to bring your own headlamps and other light emitting devices. Of course, ultimately they will need to be approved for use by a staff member, so leave the quantum laser in the future and the kerosene lamp at grandma's house.

They say when one sense is diminished your others become heightened. This is quite convenient because our own auditory guru, JSHIH, will be dropping beats that now sound that much smoother. Groping through the gloom you may be surprised to find holds in unfamiliar places because there will some new routes up as well, both boulder and top-rope. For those of you pong-junkies - do not despair - the table will be illuminated in the yoga room and ready for a little tournament action.

All proceeds from the pizza being offered will go to benefit the Orlando Optimist Club. This event will be open to all Aiguille climbers from 8:00pm to 11:00pm, but from then until midnight it will be members only. From now on we will be having an After Dark event every last Friday of the month, so mark it on your calendars and be sure to let us know how it’s going and any ideas you may have for upcoming themes.

Setter

2011-08-23T18:58:00.005-04:00

Aiguille's very own Cody Seibert and Guillermo Casanova have created the website SETTER, which allows you to share your own made-up problems with others, linking you to a community of climbers and allowing you to track and broadcast your progress on the gyms problems as well as the ones you create!

So, create your account and start setting now!

Threat Level Colombia

2011-08-22T22:47:00.003-04:00

Blowing Rocks Beach Bouldering

2011-08-18T01:51:00.003-04:00

Meet… Jessica “Jess” Jenkins

2011-07-27T16:33:00.004-04:00

By: Tara Ziegler

Jess is the type of climber where you can’t help but think, “Yeah, she was meant to do this”. Though fairly new to the sport, she has already made an impressive amount of progression and continues to challenge herself by setting new goals everyday. This, plus the fact that Jess delivers an ultra humble and positive attitude towards climbing, help make her the ideal climbing partner and some friendly competition.

Jess was first introduced to rock climbing by her brother Chris when he brought her to Aiguille a little over two years ago. A ballet dancer of over 14 years, she was already well seasoned in a mentally demanding and physically challenging sport. Unfortunately, she was not presented with very much opportunity to advance in ballet due to her petite physique. Growing increasingly weary with a situation she couldn't alter, Jess decided it was time to retire her slippers.

Though Jess didn’t have much issue in developing her climbing technique, she did find herself training muscles she wasn’t quite used to focusing on.“Ballet is all your legs pretty much, that’s why I had no upper body strength when I started climbing. I couldn't even do a pull up.” Up for the challenge, Jess began training and has since made an impressive amount of progress for the short amount of time she has been climbing. Part of her growth is also credited toward the motivation she receives from her fellow climbers. “Climbing was a flip flop from what dance was, more encouraging and challenging. People like to help. Dance wasn't like that as much. I wanted to contribute to the environment that you guys have here."

Despite a moderate fear of heights, Jess prefers to lead climbing to bouldering or top-rope. “Once you start leading, top-roping gets kind of boring. Top-roping is good for training but lead is definitely more exciting.” However she doesn’t discredit bouldering, her only two outdoor climbing trips were to HP40 and Rocktown. Jess’s current climbing goals include training for more outdoor climbing of all sorts.

JSHIH: jay - shee

2011-07-27T16:30:00.003-04:00

By: Kreg Dobzinski

Hey members, we all know how much you love to be in our gym as much and as late as possible, so this time, when 11:00pm comes around on July 29^th, there will be no pointed glares, shin attacks from the vacuum cleaner, and nudges toward the door - instead you will be asked to stay and climb, and experience the pleasing beats and melodies emanating from the skillful hands of the man known as JSHIH.

Aiguille After Dark will be almost certainly be one of the best Friday nights of your life. I mean, come on, you are going to get amazingly mixed music, access to some pizza, and climbing into the next day.

I read in a magazine somewhere that your best sending time might just be between 11:00pm and midnight, but you may never know if you don't join us after dark.

Confirmed: Muggles are taking over Hogwarts!

2011-07-27T16:27:00.005-04:00

By: Kayla Baker

Hallo, all you Ridikulus Harry Potter Fanatics out there, want an exciting new bouldering spot to talk about? Then head on over to Hogwarts!

Located in Pottersville, New York, Hogwarts Bouldering is the most magical place you will ever climb at, guaranteed. It has been highly suggested to try the Sorting Hat (V3) first, just to see where you will be assigned. Then, you might want to hop on the Nimbus 2000 (V6) and give it a whirl! Or maybe even challenge yourself on The Sorceror’s Stone (V9).

Whatever you decide, there is a little bit of everything for every muggle…I mean, climber!

Be sure to check out weekendbouldering.blogspot.com for more information!! Just beware of the Dark Lord…

Parents Beware, You May Get Jealous!

2011-07-27T16:19:00.008-04:00

By: Taylor Nelson

With summer coming to a close, don’t miss out on your opportunity to come out to our Climbing and Challenge Camp here at Aiguille Rock Climbing Center!

Filled with climbing, games, and teambuilding activities, Aiguille is the perfect place to challenge yourself and make memories that will last a lifetime! Aiguille’s Climbing and Challenge camp is open to boys and girls between the ages of 6-16 years old, with both half-day and full-day programs available to fit around your family’s schedule, as well as discounts for multiple weeks or siblings!

There are less than three weeks of camp remaining, so if you have the desire to reach new heights, learn new skills, and meet new friends--all while having a blast, then be sure you make it to Aiguille before the summer reaches its end!

For more information on our Summer Camp or for registration forms, please visit our website, ClimbOrlando.com.

UBC in Central Park!

2011-07-19T11:06:00.002-04:00

I think the UBC comp held in Central Park was the best set comp ever in terms of aesthetics.
Check out these amazing boulder problems!

Meet... Fuzzy

2011-06-19T19:27:00.006-04:00

West Virginian native, Robert “Fuzzy” Frazer has an impressive list of climbing stories, especially if you consider how new he is to the sport.
Although introduced to climbing only 10 months ago, his first experience is one most seasoned climbers only dream of. Fuzzy’s new passion started on Railay Beach Thailand where he top-roped along side a once-in-a-lifetime view. “There are these karst peaks that jut out of the ocean 600’ in the air, and climbing with the ocean at your back above the jungle canopy is sublime.”
A bit of his motivation to try climbing came from climber and photographer, Galen Rowell. “I’d always been an admirer of his photography but his philosophy and climbing were what got me into trying to rock climb before it got too late.”
Also a photographer, Fuzzy credits rock climbing for being a great way to stay in shape and create new friendships. He was actually introduced to Aiguille by a friend over 10 years ago but never had a chance to really experience the facility. Now a member of the gym, he boasts about a great, constantly changing route selection and good climbing partners.

Currently developing attractions for Universal Studios, Fuzzy formerly worked as a rigger and was forced to get accustomed to heights rather quickly. “My first experience at height was in Hamburg, Germany where our tour rigger took me into the ceiling in this beautifully restored theater. Once I got out on the grid 150’ in the air, I’m sure I left finger prints in the steel beams from holding on so tightly.” Preferring top-rope and sport as his favorite methods of climbing, one can assume he eventually became comfortable with his new and rather unique career.
Fuzzy keeps his future goals pretty humble for the most part. He is looking towards the future to improve his overall climbing, learning to read routes better and trying multi-pitch and ice climbing.

The Zanskar Odyssey

2011-06-09T00:52:00.002-04:00

Video from Vail

2011-06-07T22:17:00.001-04:00

thanks Glassberg!

Vail Bouldering World Cup

2011-06-02T19:15:00.005-04:00

Year four of the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, CO is being held this weekend at the Teva Mountain Games. There will be a live stream of semi-finals on Saturday at 12pm(Orlando time) and finals at 7pm HERE.

Meet... Tommy Terrell

2011-05-18T22:38:00.015-04:00

A native of Melbourne, Tommy Terrell grew up playing basketball throughout most of his life and had only a brief encounter with rock climbing at local gym, On the Edge. The summer after high school graduation Tommy took a tour of UCF where he was first introduced to The Tower (UCF's rock climbing facility). While he claims this love-at-first-sight did not influence his schooling decision, he did anxiously await for The Tower to re-open after it was damaged from a hurricane. After learning about Aiguille at The Tower, he and childhood friend Charlie Garcia visited the gym for their first time and got a membership soon after. He quickly learned to lead climb and experienced just how intense it could be. "Lead makes me very sketch. When I first started leading I was still very cautious. One day a friend was belaying me and when I got to the top the slack was about at my waist, so I was literally expecting to take a little whip." Unknowing to Tommy, his belayer had taken a greater amount of slack out then he thought. "I'm expecting to just sit back...and I went about 5 feet from the ground. It didn't matter how close to the ground I got, I was expecting something short. Falling is still difficult for me so I try to come in and take a whip about once a week".
He spent a while indoor climbing and perfecting his new passion before stepping into the great outdoors. "I just like being outdoors. Charlie doesn't like camping. He hates camping. If he could go on a climbing trip and stay in a hotel, he would. To me climbing trips are an escape, like very basic. You don't do anything but get up and climb some rocks." Over the past 7 years Tommy has created a list of impressive outdoor experiences. From rock climbing Mecca's such as Hueco Tanks, Yosemite and Rocky Mountain National Park to southeast classics HP40, LRC and Rocktown, just to name a few. However climbing without a home gym is something he couldn't imagine. "I think it's climbing with the group of people that I climb with. If Aiguille was the same but without those people, it would be no where near the same. It's walking in and seeing all the familiar faces. Its all about the people."

Tommy follows a somewhat unconventional training regimen,trying to maintain a high level of cardiovascular shape, through mountain biking, running and of course rock climbing into his fitness plan and once in a while will spice things up with free weights, gymnastic rings and other strength building activities. For most climbing is not just physical, there is a level of mental strength one must reach in order to begin and complete a route. Tommy is no different. "I have to mentally get amped for hard boulder problems because my skin is always trashed and most hard climbs are very painful for me. As far as pre-climb rituals are concerned (for projects I really care about) I need to feel completely focused on the climb before I get on the start. That could mean I'll pull up my shorts, clear my nose, fix any itch on my face, etc. Usually during this process I am standing by the start holds for many seconds. Sometimes though, if I've been working something an kept falling, mentally the switch will flip when I'm just starring at it and then I know I will send my next attempt, but I have to get on it right away (no talk no pause) before I loose the focus. Basically, I could summarize my climbing with the words intense focus." Though his approach may seem seem intense to some, Tommy insists it's just a part of his competitive nature. During the climbing itself he becomes completely focused, it's just him and the problem. Once back on the ground he quickly transitions back into one of the friendliest climbers you'll ever come into contact with. "I think most times when I'm not actually climbing I have a smile on my face and I am screwing around."

Tommy's favorite aspect of climbing is pushing the limits and seeing how far he can take it. "That feeling when you're right at your limit and you have to try really, really hard and everything has to connect. Mentally you have to be there, physically you have to be really precise, I think that's what I look for (in climbing)."

Dominion Riverrock Comp

2011-05-16T16:51:00.004-04:00

DeadPoint magazine reports HERE on the results of the Dominion Riverrock Competition held last weekend on one of the most creative clmbing walls we've ever seen.

Austria World Cup Live!

2011-05-14T13:03:00.003-04:00

The third IFSC Bouldering World Cup is taking place this weekend in Vienna, Austria.

Watch finals live HERE at 1:30pm today.

Boulder Bash

2011-05-08T22:50:00.000-04:00

Here is a glimpse of the bouldering wall that will be featured at the Dominion Riverrock Sports Festival in Richmond, VA on May 13th and 14th.

World Cup Live Stream

2011-05-08T10:32:00.004-04:00

The second leg of the 2011 Bouldering World Cup has been going on this weekend in Slovenia. The strongest boulderers in the world have been competing to earn a spot in today's Final round, starting at 1:00pm local time.

Watch the live stream of Finals HERE at 1:00pm!

The Scene

2011-05-06T01:39:00.002-04:00

Here's the trailor for Chuck Fryberger's new film The Scene. Enjoy!

Meet... Becky Kiley

2011-04-18T13:49:00.006-04:00

Becky "The BK" Kiley, was first introduced to rock climbing when she visited Aiguille as a physical education alternative for her home school group. After her first visit she began climbing every Wednesday, which eventually progressed to two nights a week. And over the course of seven hard working years, she is now climbing 6-7 days out of the week.

Three of those days are dedicated to Team Aiguille, the gym's official youth team. A part of the family since 2005 Becky, now 17, has had the opportunity to travel all over the nation competing in ABS & SCS. Her training regimen has earned her a spot in numerous regional and divisional competitions as well as two nationals. During Team Aiguille's practice she directs warm-ups which include a complete stretching routine, jumping jacks and a briefing from the coaches. This is followed by two hours of intense practice in which she, and her roughly 37 other teammates, complete drills such as laps (each Aiguille Lizard climbs around 400-600 moves per practice), system walls repetitions and numerous other training techniques. "Our training sessions are only 2 to 2 1/2 hours long, so we have to milk them for all we can get."

Becky just recently ventured to HP40 for her first outdoor climbing trip. Though she had an amazing experience, this self proclaimed "gym rat" prefers indoor to real rock. "Home is where the plastic is." One indoor climbing moment she would like to forget took place during last years SCS Divisionals. Around the 3rd clip on her finals route Becky fell and swung between two ropes that ricocheted her head-first into an anchor in the wall. Missing her temple by only 2 inches, she went to bed that night not knowing if she would awake the following day. "(After the accident) I became super close with my Aiguille family. I always wear my helmet now. For me and my team."

When Becky isn't working on school assignments or climbing like a beast, you can find her participating in her churches youth group or feeding her passion for all things guitar.

"Training sucks. Winning doesn't." - Becky

2011 SCS Open Nationals

2011-04-05T23:07:00.002-04:00

Sendin in the Rain!

2011-03-14T19:12:00.004-04:00

Those of you who have been to Horse Pens 40 have most likely walked past the areas V11 tespiece God Module, groping the start hold in awe of how small it is.

Well here's a video of Daniel Woods crushing God Module in the rain!
via DPM

John Gill Interview

2011-03-03T19:53:00.003-05:00

Take a few minutes to read this INTERVIEW with John Gill, the father of modern bouldering.

2011 ABS National Championship

2011-02-15T16:01:00.006-05:00

The comp:

Behind the scenes:

Here's a post comp write-up by setter Jamie Emerson, where he shares a little bit of his setting philosophy.

2011 Dark Horse Championship

2011-02-14T22:07:00.003-05:00

Here's an excellent video about the 2011 Dark Horse Championship held at Metro Rock in Boston, including behind the scenes with Dark Horse Head Setter Dave Wetmore. Enjoy!

Blowing Rocks Update

2011-02-01T18:03:00.003-05:00

A while back we posted about a proposed V12 on the beach in Jupiter, FL. Well, last weekend a crew of Aiguille climbers, along with Vertical Ventures co-owner and photographer Chris Brown, visited the beach-side cliff to check it out for themselves. Read Chris' write-up of the trip on his blog HERE.

Chris Sharma Starts Blogging

2011-01-25T17:40:00.003-05:00

Now living in Spain and sending a new "hardest route ever" nearly every day, Chris Sharma has started blogging about his experiences on Petzl's website.

Check it out HERE

Professional Climbers International

2011-01-08T23:36:00.003-05:00

Check it out HERE

Rich Simpson's Ascents in Question

2010-12-20T13:49:00.004-05:00

About a year ago we posted an article about Rich Simpson, an English climber who quit climbing after sending 5.14d, ran a 3.58 minute mile, and was training to be an Olympic boxer.

The legitimacy of Rich's achievements, climbing and otherwise, have recently come into question, and so was asked by his sponsors to provide evidence of his claims, which he did not. He was therefore dropped by both Wild Country and Scarpa.

Here is an article from UKClimbing, where all the drama began.

Mix1 All-Natural Protein Shakes!

2010-12-17T20:29:00.012-05:00

Reviewed by Mark Mercer

Finally a protein shake for the outdoor athlete! In the past, climbers such as myself have had to rely on bodybuilder-type beverages that are high in protein, at the expense of other ingredients. But Mix1’s all-natural protein shakes solve this problem by using the perfect amount of the best quality ingredients. In addition to its health advantages, I choose Mix1 over other brands because of the tasty flavors. My favorite is the new strawberry-banana. Other fruity flavors make these shakes taste less like a chalky protein drink and more like a smoothie. I’ve found Mix1 to be the perfect post-training session treat, delivering truly functional nutrition and wellness.

Check out the Mix1 Wellness Tips for more information about leading a healthy, balanced life.

Men of Route Setting 2011

2010-12-14T11:27:00.006-05:00

The Men of Route Setting 2011 Calendar

Tired of looking at the same boring calendar images year after year? Do you feel like you need more excitement and thrill in your office cubicle? Look no further! Baskit Underwear and Louder Than 11, in partnership with The Access Fund, have just what you need to round out your day. The 2011 Men of Route Setting Calendar will not only give you something steamy to look at, but you will get that warm fuzzy feeling knowing that 100% of the proceeds go straight to supporting your local climbing areas.

Hard working route setters from across the country have come together to reveal themselves in the name of charity. For the low price of $2.99 you can donate and get the gift that keeps on giving, hot route setter bodies on your wall, all year long. This year’s pages are filled with professionals and friends of the climbing community. Chances are you know a few of them, and here is your chance to get to know them a little better.

The Men of Route Setting don't take themselves too seriously, but they they are dead sexy about donating to charity.

Look for Aiguille's very own Head Route Setter Mark Mercer as the month of July!

Jonathan Brookins wins The Ultimate Fighter

2010-12-05T11:23:00.012-05:00

The Routesetters would like to congratulate Aiguille member Jonathan Brookins on his outstanding (i.e. nerve-racking) performance at the finale of The Ultimate Fighter. After getting rocked a number of times in the first round, Jonathan stuck to the game plan of bringing opponent Micheal Johnson to the ground, where Brookins sealed the deal by dominating the second and third round with some vicious ground and pound.

Watch the entire Finale. Fast forward if you'd like to the last fight

And this post fight interview.

V12 in Florida?

2010-11-27T09:54:00.004-05:00

DeadPoint Magazine reports that New Jersey climber Chris Redmond has been establishing a limestone cliff on a beach in South Florida. His sends include One From None (V12), Biggie's 10 (V11), Pipeline (V10) and Joe Green (V9), and is working on a seven move linkup of One From None that may put it in the V13/14 range.
From time to time we hear about someone bouldering on Florida's beach cliffs, but most claim the rock is chossy, breaking every time you get on the wall, and many problems can only be climbed during low-tide. The general consensus is that it isn't even worth the 3-5 hour drive.
Maybe it's a hoax, or maybe it's a new, solid cliff line that could be the start of some incredible bouldering south of Atlanta! We will keep you informed as more details become available.

Check out Deadpoint's original post on the matter HERE.

Muir Valley Access Issues

2010-11-22T16:56:00.003-05:00

Many of you have undoubtedly been to Muir Valley at the Red River Gorge. The Valley is approximately 400 acres in size and walled in by over seven miles of majestic cliffs of hard Corbin Sandstone that range in height from 20 feet to over 200 feet. Although privately owned, Muir Valley may be freely enjoyed by all because of donations. Unfortunately, with an ever-increasing number of visitors but a declining number of donations, property maintenance has become impossible for the owners. Our access is in jeopardy. Please take the time to donate any amount you can here.

Here is the original post from the owners Rick and Liz Weber explaining the situation and asking for help from the climbing community.

Element Holds Black Friday Sale

2010-11-22T14:54:00.002-05:00

ATTENTION home wall owners!

Between Friday and Sunday, all Element Climbing Holds will be 25% off.
Additionally, all purchases over $25 will receive free shipping.

To get the deal, during checkout do one of the following:

If you're a general customer, enter the coupon code: BKFR25
If you're a wholesale customer, enter the coupon code: BKFRGYM35

Yank 'n Yard

2010-10-30T12:22:00.003-04:00

Check out the interesting routesetting and climbing terrain at the annual Yank 'n Yard competition held at Stone Age Climbing Gym in Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Deep Water Solo Competition

2010-10-26T15:27:00.003-04:00

Check out DeadPoint Magazines write-up of the first ever 'artificial deep water solo’ competition held in Spain last weekend, here.

Update:

Foam Pit!

2010-10-24T12:03:00.006-04:00

One of the most common questions the Aiguille Setting Crew receives, sounds something like "Dude, you ever thought about putting a foam pit under the wall? You know, like Rob Dyrdek style..."
Yes, actually we have. So has any other climber with an imagination, and so did our buddies over at Planet Rock. But they actually made the idea become reality. Check out their sketchy, yet enticing 60ft free-solo over a foam pit.

Alex Puccio on the cover of Outside Magazine

2010-10-19T20:06:00.001-04:00

UBC Outdoor Retailer 2010

2010-10-08T23:14:00.000-04:00

UBC Nor'Easter 2010

2010-10-08T23:10:00.001-04:00

The Undead Hang Halloween Promo!

2010-10-02T21:12:00.001-04:00

Ben Hoberg takes 6th!

2010-09-11T18:13:00.005-04:00

Ben at 2010 SCS Youth Nationals; photo by ClimbingPix.com

Aiguille local Ben Hoberg recently traveled to Edinburgh, Scotland for the IFSC Youth World Championships where he placed 6th in difficulty. Ben was in a low 20th place leading into Saturday, but after placing 8th in the morning semifinal round and a great effort in finals he jumped to an amazing 6th place finish.

Congratulations Ben on an amazing showing in your last Youth Worlds!

The Ronnie Dickson Project: Amputee Climbing

2010-09-07T17:59:00.003-04:00

You may remember Tampa local Ronnie Dickson from an old post, or met him at Aiguille on one of his visits.

Watch this new video from DeadPoint about how the amputee climber manages to send all your southeast projects.

Stone Fort Guidebook

2010-09-06T13:17:00.002-04:00

Stone Fort, also known as “Little Rock City,” has a guidebook coming out in early October
Buy it presale here for just $19.99

Tommy's Email

2010-09-03T21:10:00.004-04:00

Mark,

Here is the link to National Geographics piece on the Midnight Lightning:

http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/2008/09/yosemite/climbing-photosynth-text

from this page you can find a video featuring Tommy Caldwell (very nicely done) climbing the boulder problem, as well as the photo synth thing. In my opinion, everyone should know what this climb is. There is a ton of history behind it, as well as some mystery regarding the lightning bolt. Supposedly, it is the most famous boulder problem in the world... I tried it on my trip and got shut down with the feet at the beginning.... next time.

Lastly, here is a quote from John Gills website:

One modern test-piece, Midnight Lightning, was done by Ron Kaukin in 1978. Bachar and Kauk and others worked on this infamous problem for two months : ". . . Yablonski envisioned the line, then rushed over to Bachar and Kauk.. .'I found this new problem, man. It'll go Bachar and Kauk looked at it and shook their heads. . . they started working on the problem and making unexpected progress. . . soon the two were reaching the lip, but having no luck turning it. . . . Finally, on what promised to be another heel bruising day of attempts and failures, Kauk was again at the lip . . . he rocked over his right foot while popping a quick mantle with his left arm. He grabbed the finishing jug and the crowd fell into a shocked silence . . . "
Stone Crusade by John Sherman.

Enjoy,
-Tommy Terrell

New Setters!

2010-08-31T18:19:00.003-04:00

Please welcome Megan Harrington and David Patton to the Aiguille Routesetting Crew.
Jump on Megan's new white 5.8 on wall 11...

and David's green 5.9 slab on wall 12.

2010 Bouldering World Cup

2010-08-24T17:30:00.004-04:00

Here are a number of videos highlighting this years Bouldering World Cup circuit.

And this one's got interviews with the World Cup competitors talking about the routesetting...

The Pogo

2010-08-12T17:48:00.002-04:00

A 3-part film about the move The Pogo...

Meet... Jonathan Brookins

2010-08-11T21:51:00.026-04:00

Jonathan Brookins 25, was born and raised in Portland Oregon where he grew up with his sister and 3 brothers. From a very early age he had a love for WWF (now WWE) and all things wrestling, however by age 10 it had slowly fizzled out. Four years later he was cut from the Century High School basketball team, the only sport he had any real interest in at the time. Having no other extra curricular activities, Jonathan would hangout with friends in the hallways after school, not exactly being a productive student. One day the wrestling coach approached him and said if he was going to be at school he might as well wrestle. Four years later Jonathan held the title of Oregon State Champion. “Making it to State was always pretty incredible because it was everything that you worked for. Its one thing to be best in the county but to make it to the State Tournament, to actually be the best in the whole state always seemed like a pretty big accomplishment”

Jonathan continued to wrestle up until junior year in college when he decided to move to Ocala, Florida to be with his family. A few weeks after moving he started hearing of a large mixed martial arts following in the city and became immediately interested. One day he met the owner of an MMA gym who invited him to go and check it out. With the wrestling background on his side, Jonathan found that he took to the newer fighting style with ease. The gym’s newest fighter began training in March and was approached with a wild card entry into a professional MMA fight in June. Jonathan knocked out his opponent in the first 17 seconds. “From then on, I just thought I would be a fighter.”

Now holding a record of 11-3 and almost always excelling in every sport he tries, Jonathan has built up a fierce confidence that only gets stronger with every new experience. “Fighting has brought to my life a love for new activities and a love to better myself.”

One activity that has recently had a large impact on the fighter is rock climbing. Jonathan was in high school when he first tried out climbing in a bouldering gym. After not having any real interest in the sport, it wasn’t until about 14 months ago that he gave it a second thought. “It was way more challenging than I ever could have thought. As a kid I couldn’t grasp it but as I was older I could really see where the challenge and the fun of it was, and I’m just super in love with it. The improvement you get from that activity is crazy.”
Along with girlfriend Sophia Roe and best friend Misha Villanueva, he tries to climb at least 2-3 times a week, preferring top-roping to bouldering. “I like top-roping the best, but I have yet to fully embrace that world. I’m still very much a rookie. Really, really just gotta stress how rookie I am.”

Before a fight Jonathan adds a bit more intensity to his workout, but for the most part everything remains the same as his day-to-day routine. Six days a week, his wakeup time is between 5-6 a.m. when he begins an 8-mile run. A short rest (including a lot of snacking) later, he heads up to Gracie Barra where he trains for about 3-4 hours. “The perfect day would be to end it with some rock climbing or yoga. That would be the perfect training day.”

Future plans for the fighter include learning to surf, snowboard, sliding down slides, doing summersaults and one day opening his own gym.

You can catch Jonathan on Season 12 of The Ultimate Fighter, premiering September 15^th on SpikeTV.

America's Got Talent: AscenDance

2010-08-01T21:57:00.000-04:00

Grigri 2

2010-07-20T12:21:00.002-04:00

Petzl will soon be releasing a new and improved Grigri, which is 20% lighter, 25% smaller, and works on ropes between 8.9 and 11 mm in diameter compared to the originals 9.8 to 10.3 mm.

Pick yours up at Aiguille in the near future.

Sheffield Bouldering World Cup

2010-07-06T23:54:00.001-04:00

4th of July Part/Comp

2010-06-29T12:01:00.002-04:00

Come celebrate your independence and Flag for your Flag!

Entry Fee:
$10 for Members
$15 for Nonmembers

This includes your competition scorecard and one BBQ dish and drink. For nonmembers, this includes your day pass however to will need to purchase rental equipment. Spectators can come and watch for FREE!

We will be selling raffle tickets for $1.00 a piece where you will have the opportunity to win

There will also be some rope routes put up the day of the competition for you as well!

If you are competing, you may not come into the gym that Friday until the competition.

Moscow World Cup

2010-06-20T21:56:00.007-04:00

Never seen this move before...
But seriously, take a look at this huge bathtub hold.

UCF Climbing Team in the Central Florida Future

2010-06-16T16:26:00.002-04:00

Read the article by Kaitlyn Teabo HERE

Interactive Climbing Wall

2010-06-15T17:07:00.005-04:00

The iOO CLIMB turns every ordinary climbing wall into an augmented climbing experience. Thousands of boulders and routes can now be saved on a single wall, and browsed and played using a single remote control. Climbers can thus focus on their climbing experience, forgetting numbered stickers and colored stripes. Climbing routes are displayed only where and when it is needed.

Intuitiveness
Traditional numbered stickers and colored stripes are substituted with simple lines and shaped bull's eyes, providing a clean and intuitive climbing experience: no more numbers and colors to find and count.

Replay
Climbers can watch a replay of their climb, correctly juxtapposed on the climbing surface.

Durability
Once stored, routes and boulders can be browsed by everyone via remote control, and the absence of physical parts that can be touched, scratched, removed, makes these available for years.

Deployability
iOO Climb works with any traditional climbing wall, and with holds of every size, shape, color, and design.

Internet Powered
Identical climbing walls can exchange routes and boulders via the internet. With our standard climbing walls there is no need for trained personnel to track new paths, since iOO Climb comes with hundreds of already tracked boulders and routes.

Games for Children
iOO Climb provides specific climbing games for young people, with customizable graphics of animals, toys, and funny symbols. A must for climbing lessons with children.

Front and Rear Projection Setup
iOO Climb works in front projected setups, for traditional already existing climbing walls, and in rear projected setups, with translucent walls, providing the greatest climbing experience.

Thanks Amber for bringing this to our attention!

A Different Kind of Game

2010-06-11T16:01:00.002-04:00

Here is a recap of the Vail World Cup by USA Chief Routesetter Chris Danielson for B3bouldering.com:

Competition climbing is an interesting game, both for the competitors who throw themselves at the walls and for those of us who organize and help create the lines they attempt to ascend. Jamie asked me to write a recap of the recent Vail Boulder World Cup we both set. This comp was a great achievement for USA Climbing and a celebration of the amazing ability of top athletes, including one American who really stands out. In so many ways an event like this captures the excitement of the sport, shows how much bouldering has grown, and also highlights challenges of climbing competition organization.

The annual climbing comp held as part of the Teva Mountain Games has grown from a tiny event once held on a small portable wall to one of the premier bouldering competitions anywhere on the globe. The level of planning and coordination needed for an event of this scale is much more than most would imagine and Kynan Waggoner of USA Climbing deserves most of the credit. The IFSC has been incredibly supportive of our event, and seasoned representatives Graeme Alderson and Tim Hatch helped ensure this year’s competition went smoothly. The IFSC Chief International Setter, Manu Hassler, brought not only some European flair to our routesetting, but an easygoing demeanor that helped balance a stressful week of preparation. Rock and Ice also made a great event that much better by providing a live feed so the masses online could devour some action.

While the past two years in Vail were headlined by the Alex and Alex show, 2010 was the year of Daniel. A review of the competition through Woods’ performance, with some comments on routesetting and comp climbing in general, seems most appropriate.

Woods demonstrated strength early on by completing four of the five Qualifier problems with relative ease. He made a couple slips early on, but then demonstrated his enormous strength by flashing the longest and perhaps most powerful problem in the comp, a steep thug fest with big moves on good holds. He almost went into first after the Qualification but despite a strong attempt, could not complete the fifth and final slab boulder. Daniel was in third after Qualifiers, with the Young Slovenian strongman Jernej Kruder in second. Paul had a very impressive performance, going into Saturday’s round at the top of the field.
In preparation for the Semifinal round, we had worked hard to ensure a wide range of styles. Routesetting is not a science. What we do is try to create climbs that have a number of different objectives. Our goal, first and foremost, is to divide the competitive field, but we also strive to showcase the climbers’ ability in varied types of movement, making it exciting for the crowd, and safe for everyone. In the Semifinals, the climbers would first encounter a short low-percentage slab bloc, with a hard-to-catch swing move, and a tenuous mantle. Daniel bested it second try with a thrillingly timed jump to the finish as his weight moved up and off the slab press move. Next up was a relatively straightforward power problem and then a steep boulder with a double-clutch jump followed by compression moves. Neither of these presented a challenge for Woods. The last boulder mystified many of the competitors, with a difficult to decipher starting sequence leading to a very hard finish requiring contact-strength on slopers. Daniel made an astonishing flash of this final problem and secured first place standing going into finals, being the only one to complete all four blocs. (Rock and Ice vid 2:05)

Finals started a few hours later and the competitors were not the only anxious bunch. As we finished the preparation for the round, our routesetting team was certain every detail had been checked – start and finishes clearly marked, bonus boxes accurately placed, set-screws in every hold, padding in place. But, the thing about competition climbing is, so much of the pressure for the success of an event is based on the creativity and intuition of the people turning the wrenches, and then the unpredictable performance of the athletes. We do our best to calculate accurate difficulties that will split the field fairly with exciting action, but when the climbing starts, we have to leave it to the climbers to create their own drama.

As the group of six finalists went from boulder to boulder, Daniel climbed last on each one and put on a great show for the thousands of spectators. He climbed the first arête squeeze bloc second-go. The second problem had a hard jump to two crimps off the start, and a wildly difficult “drive-by” for the finish. While all the finalists figured out the start jump and made it to the last move, only a couple even touched the last hold, throwing their bodies up and out at the jug, and spinning off. Daniel latched the finish with a small swing. He kept his foot on.

The third boulder was the least inspiring and a miscalculation from a routesetting perspective. Each of the climbers made multiple attempts at a finishing launch that was just an inch or two out of reach. The crowd screamed enthusiastically before each climber went for the finish, but the cheers would be followed with a long communal sigh each time. Even for Daniel, that move was just too much. On the final bloc, the climbers would start in a dihedral, facing the crowd, set up and jump out to a huge ring, then finish up hard moves on crimps. This proved very difficult for most, with only Kruder sticking the early jump as others repeatedly swung off.

The last to climb, at first it looked as though Woods would be shut down by the dyno. But with only seconds left to get on the wall for a final attempt, Daniel demonstrated what I think may be his most mature moment as a competitor. Though by completing the second bloc he had already secured the win, he would not give up. After setting up and staring down the dyno, he jumped out and caught the ring, his body swinging up and past horizontal. The crowd went wild. Woods settled on the jug, then campused up and drove through the crimp moves Kruder had fallen on, with the thousands deep field of spectators roaring at every move. On the final two crimps he was well in control and staring down the finish jug. He placed his feet and went to pull but slipped off as he generated upwards.

Those last thirty seconds made for a nearly perfect finish for the World Cup Champion, and an enormous sigh of relief for our routesetting crew. We cannot predict exactly what the climbers will do, and this reflects the incredible subtlety of climbing competition. Daniel did stick the dyno and almost finished the boulder. If he had, it would have been absolutely incredible. I can hardly imagine how loud the crowd would have cheered. But, with seconds left, he could have also missed the jump and left us all a bit disappointed. The spectators may have been disappointed in the event, some climbers perhaps disappointed in themselves, and the routesetters certainly disappointed in their efforts. What makes climbing incredibly unique also presents a great challenge for our sport at the highest levels.

I have yet to learn of a sport where the environment that determines competitor performance is so malleable. At each event we are preparing anew a fresh competitive arena. In climbing competitions like the Boulder World Cup or most others like it, we cannot know for certain whether the climber(s) will achieve the pre-determined goal of getting to the top. They have limited time to attempt the climbs, but whether and (most of the time) exactly how they will, is entirely determined by the creative guesswork of routesetters.
There are sports, similar to climbing, where the preparation of the competitive arena changes by venue, but where each individual competitor encounters the same thing during the competition. But in any of these examples, the factors for success are very well-defined (for both the competitor and the spectator). Though the contours of the terrain and placement of the pins change, the golfer, for example, will get the ball in the hole eventually and the winner will be determined by who has made the least attempts to do so. Though the hills are carved differently and the gate placements altered, the skier will make it to the bottom of the slalom course and the winner will be the one who does so the fastest. In climbing, nothing is that simple.

We want first and foremost to split the field of competitors fairly. We hope that their performance on a variety of climbs will show, through a balance of power and fitness, mental tenacity, route-reading and on-sight ability, which among them is the best. Regardless of the format, competition climbing is anomalous. After this event, I am happy, but also pensive, trying to consider how to ensure successful competitions in the future, considering the unique challenges of how it all works.

In this example, Daniel put on a dramatic performance and finished off the competition in style, showing off how amazing bouldering is. Congratulations Daniel on an excellent win, you are a true competitor.

-American Head Setter Chris Danielson

Teva Mountain Games

2010-06-08T00:32:00.003-04:00

Watch the video from Deadpoint HERE

CCS National Champions!

2010-06-04T22:01:00.006-04:00

You may have already heard that UCF won the Collegiate Climbing Series National Championship a few weeks ago. The league has been running for two years, with UCF taking home the gold both seasons.

In addition to the team competition, many UCF students placed in the top three of the individual difficulty and speed competitions.
Men's Difficulty:
1st - Mark Mercer

Men's Speed:
2nd - Mark Mercer
3rd - Charlie Garcia

Women's Speed:
2nd - Michelle Schrader

Congratulations to the UCF Climbing Team! Good luck next season.

Update from Vail

2010-06-02T21:14:00.011-04:00

by Mark
This weekend marks the third ever bouldering World Cup held in the USA, which is taking place at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO. I have been here since Friday helping set for the climbing portion of The Games. There are actually three separate competitions taking place this weekend, the World Cup, a youth comp, and a citizens comp. The World Cup is being held Friday and Saturday, with qualifiers on Friday and semifinals and finals on Saturday. The youth and citizens portion of the comp is on Sunday.

Here is a lineup of the setters for the competitions.

World Cup:

Manu Hassler, International Chief - from Switzerland

Chris Danielson, USA Chief - sequence forcing extraordinaire/ rep for most hold companies

Scott Mechler - Former head setter for the PCA

Jamie Emerson - Former head setter of The Spot

Mike Helt - Founder of Routesetter.com

Youth/Citizens:

John Muse, Chief - Owner of Stone Moves in Houston, TX

Myself

Shane Messer - Head Setter of Triangle Rock Club

Ryan Sewell, Intern - Former youth competitor and US Team member

Although I can't upload photos of the problems just yet (in case any competitors read this blog), I can tell you that they are phenomenal. It has been an honor setting with and learning from such an experienced crew.

Here are some videos from the past two years...

and from the bouldering World Cup held just last weekend in Vienna...